# Digquad flickering issue after changing from 3 different NodeMCU's **URL:** \ **Category:** Issues\ **Created:** [July 11, 2024, 11:07am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220 "2024-07-11T11:07:29Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 15\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![madradrakie](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/dc4da7/32.png) [@madradrakie](https://wled.discourse.group/u/madradrakie)\ **Post date:** [July 11, 2024, 11:07am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/1 "2024-07-11T11:07:29Z")
Hello, I have permanent lights fixed to my house run in three lines: - Channel 1: 5v 452 pixels - 10 feet dataline between controller and start line. I insert power every 50 LEDS. - Channel 2: 5V 260 pixes - 10 feet dataline between controller and start line. I insert power every 50 LEDS. - Channel 3: 5v 360 pixes - 10 feet dataline between controller and start line. I insert power every 50 LEDS. Power supply 5v 40 amp Before i used three seperated NodeMCU’s with a sacrificed pixel and had no problems. With the new setup with a digquad with meanwell 40 AMP i have random small flickers every minute . I already changed the resitor on the digquad to 33ohm but it did not fixed the problem. On WLED the power limiter is set to 25 AMP. I also already lowered the brighntess, it seems the flixering reduces a little. Could it be a data issue or power injection problem? I am really wondering why i had no issues in the old setup. ---
**Author:** ![Magig\_Wled](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/db5fbb/32.png) [@Magig\_Wled](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Magig_Wled)\ **Post date:** [July 12, 2024, 6:31am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/2 "2024-07-12T06:31:45Z")
You are right flickering comes from power isue injekt at least stat and end and ofcause every 300Node ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [July 12, 2024, 11:36am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/3 "2024-07-12T11:36:58Z")
What version of WLED are you running in the Digi? What GPIOs are you using? Have you tried swapping the strip drive(s) to see if the issue goes with a particular strip or a particular GPIO? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [July 12, 2024, 6:23pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/4 "2024-07-12T18:23:32Z")
I would first try updating WLED on the quad: [https://install.quinled.info/](https://install.quinled.info/) ---
**Author:** ![mrdude2478](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/mrdude2478/32/7859_2.png) [@mrdude2478](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mrdude2478)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 12:55am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/5 "2024-07-14T00:55:03Z")
NodeMCU data pins work at 3.3v and your lights work at 5v. If you add a 3.3v to 5v level shifter to the data pin, that should solve your flickering issues. Something like this will fix your issues: > **[Logic Level Converter Bi-Directional (BOB-12009)](https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/logic-level-converter-bi-directional)** > > DESCRIPTION If you've ever tried to connect a 3.3V device to a 5V system, you know what a challenge it can be. The bi-directional logic level converter is a small device that safely steps down 5V signals to 3.3V AND steps up 3.3V to 5V at the same... ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 2:14am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/6 "2024-07-14T02:14:42Z")
This NOT a suitable levelshifter for addressable LEDs. These are I2C based shifters that end up being too slow to be reliable. Please don’t recommend these style of devices. The KB has good information on [proper levelshifters](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/#levelshifters) The OP has noted that they are using sacrificial pixels. While they are not optimal, they at least meet the basic speed and voltage requirements for a levelshifter. In the long run, the OP may indeed need a proper device. ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 2:48am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/7 "2024-07-14T02:48:09Z")
The OP switched to a Dig Quad and that is where they are having issues. Quindor’s controllers are already level shifted to 5v d-out madradrakie, What are you using for wire? ---
**Author:** ![madradrakie](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/dc4da7/32.png) [@madradrakie](https://wled.discourse.group/u/madradrakie)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 9:12am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/8 "2024-07-14T09:12:13Z")
i updated to the latest version but no effect. I did not change the pins, i just use the standard once already implemented in WLED for the DigQuad. I used 22awg 3-lines for power and data and seperate 20awg powerlines. I think i have to upgrade these because the distances are large. But i just can not understand why in my previous setup everything was working without any issues. Could it be a solution to implement a sacrificial pixel again? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 6:09pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/9 "2024-07-14T18:09:39Z")
Could very likely be a voltage issue. If you have a multi meter measure the voltage at different locations in the strips. You are asking a lot of that 22awg wire @ 10ft 5v and longer if you used it for your injections. I would look at using 18awg to the beginning of the strip and 16awg farther for your injections. A cheap option is to buy an outdoor extension cord and cut it to length. Also if the 20awg is what you have running from your power supply to the dig you should increase that as well. 20awg is not rated to handle 40A of power (it is rated for 3.5a). You would need something like 12awg x2 ---
**Author:** ![madradrakie](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/dc4da7/32.png) [@madradrakie](https://wled.discourse.group/u/madradrakie)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 8:22pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/10 "2024-07-14T20:22:59Z")
I will test the voltages. The permanent lines across my house were one of the first WLED projects, lets say a learned a lott in the meantime 🙂. Back then i used a lott of internet guidelines who all worked with 20awg cables. Later when i discoverd the product of Quinled i also started to make use of 16 and 18 awg cables. Just to make clear, i use different 20 awg lines, not just one and i use 12awg cable between the digquad and the powersupply. What do you mean by using a outdoor extension cord? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 9:00pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/11 "2024-07-14T21:00:47Z")
> [@madradrakie](#): > > What do you mean by using a outdoor extension cord? Any outdoor rated extension cord like this: [https://www.amazon.com/GoGreen-Power-GG-13750BK-Outdoor-Extension/dp/B00NY419GS](https://www.amazon.com/GoGreen-Power-GG-13750BK-Outdoor-Extension/dp/B00NY419GS) Cut the ends off and you have 16/3 wire or 14/3 or 12/3 depending on the size you buy. I generally use the hot and neutral (black & white) as positive and the green as negative ground for power injection wire. If you leave a few feet when you cut the plug off you can use it for the power cord of a power supply. ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 9:09pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/12 "2024-07-14T21:09:54Z")
20awg wire has a voltage drop of about 1v every 10 ft @ 5a draw 18awg is about .6v at the same distance/current. The farther you go and the more current you use the more the voltage drops. ---
**Author:** ![mrdude2478](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/mrdude2478/32/7859_2.png) [@mrdude2478](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mrdude2478)\ **Post date:** [July 14, 2024, 9:21pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/13 "2024-07-14T21:21:19Z")
I used these 12c level shifters and they work fine for me. I also have some SN74AHCT125N that I used when using wled with esp32 + ws2812b or SK6812 and they work fine as well. Without using a level shifter with a 3.3v chip (esp32) I get flickering and the wrong colours due to the wrong voltage + voltage drop due to resistance in the cable + interference. Using a level shifter fixes all these issues. ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [July 15, 2024, 9:41pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/14 "2024-07-15T21:41:36Z")
Many people “make due” without a levelshifter at all. Study the physics and you’ll realize quickly that’s LED roulette. Feel free to handle your own projects however you wish, but the only consistent recommendation you’ll see here is to use a proper levelshifter as described in the KB. That’s the resuilt of more than a few years and many more than a few LED projects worth of experience around the globe. ---
**Author:** ![madradrakie](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/dc4da7/32.png) [@madradrakie](https://wled.discourse.group/u/madradrakie)\ **Post date:** [July 23, 2024, 7:56pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/digquad-flickering-issue-after-changing-from-3-different-nodemcus/12220/15 "2024-07-23T19:56:47Z")
the digquad has a level shifter. From the website of quinled: ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/d/d9655708fd20775574c65c89dcd41b2ea860eaca.png) so i think it is the power issue at the end of the line. i will try to upgrade my existing wire as you mentioned.