# Help with Gledopto Controller / PSU / LED choices + wiring **URL:** \ **Category:** Questions\ **Created:** [November 26, 2025, 4:53pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009 "2025-11-26T16:53:24Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 7\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![mdolnik](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/cdc98d/32.png) [@mdolnik](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mdolnik)\ **Post date:** [November 26, 2025, 4:53pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/1 "2025-11-26T16:53:24Z")
This is my first project with LED strips and I have a need to run a total of 310” / 7.9m of LEDs. I have been generally bouncing ideas off ChatGPT, but would like humans to help me with my final decisions. The parts I’m considering… **Controller:** Gledopto GL-C-017WL-D 4 Channel 10A: `https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0F8NRG27V` **PSU:** inShareplus LED Driver DC 12V 16.5A 200W: `https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CX4RP377` **LEDs:** FCOB LED Light Strip Pixel Addressable 720 LEDs RGB Dream Full Color 12mm 12V WS2812B High Density Flexible COB Lights: `https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005047242165.html` **What I think is the wiring setup:** ![LED Wiring](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/f/fe0718df2b2b757a52025150bd87f27e6b337960.jpeg) **Misc requirement:** The PSU and controller need to fit into a thin space of 1.5” so the PSU was chosen because of it’s 1.18” depth. **General questions I have:** 1. Is my wiring diagram correct for my setup? 2. Any issue using those FCOB LEDs? 3. I am intentionally overpowering the PSU, but is it _way_ too overpowered? My thought is an overpowered PSU would run cooler under stress in the confined space than a PSU closer to my power needs. 4. The wattage / amperage / fuse suggestions were from [wled-calculator.github.io](http://wled-calculator.github.io) but I used `WS2811 12V` for the strip type, as the calculator considers `WS2812B` as 5V. Is there such thing as a 12/24V `WS2812B` that my LED link above is offering? 5. With the [https://wled-calculator.github.io](https://wled-calculator.github.io) calculator, the FCOB implies 720 LEDs per meter, but there are only options for 30/60 per meter. Would the 720 be equivalent to 60 in this case? Or do I have to calculate this some other way? 6. The top corners of the LED are essentially connected, am I able to leave the LED strips as-is when going around an inner corner in a 45° channel or to I have to cut + rewire? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [November 26, 2025, 9:45pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/2 "2025-11-26T21:45:56Z")
From listings I saw on Amazon: | **Wattage** | 21W/m (full brightness) | | --- | --- | | **Recommend power supply** | DC12V10A -For 5m strip. | | --- | --- | So if you plan to use them at full brightness RGB **White** , you are at about the max for that power supply. You should never use more than about 80% of a power supplies rated load, and many cheap no name ones won’t even run at 80% before they start dropping voltage. Channel 1 would be at like 10.5A +/- (provided you could get that much power through the strip(s) with only the 2 end injection 🤷‍♂️ Channel 2 would be about 2.5A Using other colors/Fx/lower brightness would greatly reduce the power usage. ---
**Author:** ![mdolnik](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/cdc98d/32.png) [@mdolnik](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mdolnik)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2025, 4:22pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/3 "2025-11-27T16:22:02Z")
Thanks so much for your response, > [@Jinx](#): > > From listings I saw on Amazon: > > **Wattage** 21W/m (full brightness) Do you mind giving me any of the links for these? I wasn’t able to find matches on amazon with that exact quote, but I found this one: `https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DVCB61YS` which mentions `Wattage 21 watts` …But I also found this one `https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DTJZTL8J` which mentions `Theoretical Wattage: 12V-12W/m, 24V-21W/m.` So I am wondering if the ones you found are showing the wattage for the 24V versions which all pages seem to be offering both 12/24V variants. > [@Jinx](#): > > So if you plan to use them at full brightness RGB **White** , you are at about the max for that power supply. You should never use more than about 80% of a power supplies rated load, and many cheap no name ones won’t even run at 80% before they start dropping voltage. That’s a good point, my use case is _mainly_ for the color, lighting up a room would be an added bonus, so I can always configure WLED to max out at a lower power right? The power supply I am considering is also available in a 300W 25A version, would there be any issues with that? I figured it would be overkill, but if these LEDs are indeed 21w/m then it might be worth it? `https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DN18NZZN` _Side note: Sorry about the non-clickable links, apparently new accounts are limited to 2 links per post._ ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2025, 6:45pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/4 "2025-11-27T18:45:43Z")
The only real way to know would be to measure their usage I guess. The more I look the listed figures are all over the place. This one says 21w/m recommended supply of 10a for 5m: [Amazon.com: FCOB WS2811 COB Smart IC RGB LED Strip 16.4FT, 12V Flexible High Density Uniform Chasing Color Addressable Light 720LED/m 12mm Width Black PCB for Home Indoor Decor, No Power Supply/Controller : Industrial & Scientific](https://www.amazon.com/FCOB-Flexible-Density-Uniform-Controller/dp/B0CD7G44Q1) This one says 12w/m: [Amazon.com: TUNICHX SPI COB RGBIC LED Strip Light FOB WS2811 High Density Uniform Light UL-Listed Dream Color Strip Light 720LEDs/m Dimmable LED Tape for Bedroom Party Gaming Room Indoor(No Adapter or Controller) : Tools & Home Improvement](https://www.amazon.com/TUNICHX-Addressable-Chasing-Flexible-Controller/dp/B0CNRGHQKL) This one says 60w for 5m and recommended supply of 3a for 5m: [Amazon.com: BTF-LIGHTING FCOB WS2811 IC RGB COB LED Strip DC12V 720LED/m 16.4FT Flexible High Density Uniform Chasing Color Light 20IC/m 12mm Width Light for Home Indoor Decor(No Adapter or Controller) : Tools & Home Improvement](https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Flexible-Density-Uniform-Controller/dp/B0BW5T6HW4) If it’s not much more $ the larger supply would not hurt anything and would be less demanding on it if/when using higher currents. ---
**Author:** ![mdolnik](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/cdc98d/32.png) [@mdolnik](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mdolnik)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2025, 3:48am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/5 "2025-11-28T03:48:35Z")
> [@Jinx](#): > > The more I look the listed figures are all over the place. Agreed, if only these things were more obvious, seems like a really important thing when shopping for them. > [@Jinx](#): > > If it’s not much more $ the larger supply would not hurt anything and would be less demanding on it if/when using higher currents. Yeah I may as well go for the 300w. I’m mostly clueless when it comes to doing calculations for electronics so as long as an overpowered PSU doesn’t fry everything attached to it, I’m not too concerned. With that in mind, does my wiring diagram look accurate? As in, 12 V+ goes from PSU to all LEDs and into the controller, but does not exit the controller? Does the 12V negative wiring make sense too? PSU V- connected to LEDs and controller input AND output? And if the LEDs are indeed higher wattage than I expected, should I increase the fuses to something like 10A and 3A? Or just leave them at 7.5 and 2 and see what happens? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2025, 6:28pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/6 "2025-11-28T18:28:13Z")
I think it looks ok. You may not need the negative coming out of the controller. It depends on how it’s wired inside, but it’s not hurting anything. So I would leave there. ---
**Author:** ![mdolnik](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/cdc98d/32.png) [@mdolnik](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mdolnik)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2025, 7:01pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-with-gledopto-controller-psu-led-choices-wiring/15009/7 "2025-11-28T19:01:57Z")
Awesome, thanks so much for all of your help, much appreciated!