# Need help getting lights to work **URL:** \ **Category:** Questions\ **Created:** [November 23, 2021, 3:48am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101 "2021-11-23T03:48:00Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 3:48am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/1 "2021-11-23T03:48:00Z")
Have a set of outdoor string lights and trying to use WLED, but having a hard time. I’ve tried selecting WS2811 and just white light is on and can’t even dim. In fact noticed the power doesn’t even turn the lights off. Odd part is I got green working but not of the other colors using TM1814, which is odd because chip says WS2811. Any thoughts Pic attached of the lights. ![Screenshot_20211122-204250](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/4/466b873f1a621c7dd27a04aceb84dde8d3a5dcf0.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 4:03am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/2 "2021-11-23T04:03:22Z")
so with WS2811 configured I noticed a slider called “White Channel” so I moved it all the way the other direction and the white (LEDS turned off), and colors now work fine until I go to effects. Any effect I select the white LED’s stay on washing out the colors… Pic attached of the white bar I was talking about ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/6/66d09152ede50b8edf68ee2963120956ee9335e1.png) ---
**Author:** ![blazoncek](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/blazoncek/32/1886_2.png) [@blazoncek](https://wled.discourse.group/u/blazoncek)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 7:08am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/3 "2021-11-23T07:08:04Z")
Use auto-white calculation mode. ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 4:43pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/4 "2021-11-23T16:43:05Z")
Will give that a shot and see if that works. Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 4:50pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/5 "2021-11-23T16:50:52Z")
When configure with WS281x there is no option “auto-white calculation mode”. When I select something like TM1814 there is an option at the bottom of the page called (auto-white calculation mode). ---
**Author:** ![Artacus](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/artacus/32/1258_2.png) [@Artacus](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Artacus)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 5:38pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/6 "2021-11-23T17:38:43Z")
How many pins / wires does the thing have? And are they clearly labeled? I’m wondering if you are on a pwm pin to control white and not the actual data pin. ---
**Author:** ![Artacus](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/artacus/32/1258_2.png) [@Artacus](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Artacus)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 5:42pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/7 "2021-11-23T17:42:18Z")
I don’t have a lot of experience with WS2811. But I’ve never seen them control white too. ---
**Author:** ![mjg1088](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d2c977/32.png) [@mjg1088](https://wled.discourse.group/u/mjg1088)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 5:55pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/8 "2021-11-23T17:55:43Z")
> [@galluccib](#): > > When configure with WS281x there is no option “auto-white calculation mode”. When I select something like TM1814 there is an option at the bottom of the page called (auto-white calculation mode). Have you tried SK6812? Pretty certain those communicate the same as WS281x, but because they have optional white, “Auto-white calculation mode” may be an option. ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [November 23, 2021, 6:11pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/9 "2021-11-23T18:11:40Z")
I’m suspicious of what we’re dealing with here as well. To me, the photo clearly shows 3xRGB LED’s, a WS2811 controller, and a MOSFET power driver for 4xWhite LED’s Depending on the input lines I see 2 scenarios: _ **4 Lines** _ - V+, Gnd, Data IN, White control. This would be a “standard” WS281x strip in parallel with a PWM White string. _ **3 Lines** _ - V+, Gnd, Data IN More complicated, the RGB LED’s could be in series with the WS2811 which controls the White LED’s (probably all 4 together) to “add the white channel”. The TM1814 protocol is designed with the 2nd scenario in mind (looking at the comments in the NeoPixelBus forums) although it may apply across the entire strip rather than on a node by node basis. Just my best guesses based on what we’ve seen so far… ---
**Author:** ![blazoncek](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/blazoncek/32/1886_2.png) [@blazoncek](https://wled.discourse.group/u/blazoncek)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2021, 1:03pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/10 "2021-11-24T13:03:16Z")
WS2811 is essentially the same as WS2812 except that the chip is external to LEDs. ---
**Author:** ![blazoncek](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/blazoncek/32/1886_2.png) [@blazoncek](https://wled.discourse.group/u/blazoncek)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2021, 1:07pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/11 "2021-11-24T13:07:34Z")
@divsys may have a point here. ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2021, 1:55am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/12 "2021-11-27T01:55:29Z")
Yeah it’s three wire… ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2021, 2:01am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/13 "2021-11-27T02:01:33Z")
Do you have a multimeter you could use to check some connections? It would be worthwhile knowing if the WS2811 connects to the LED’s or the mosfet driver. I just had another thought, is there anything on the _backside_ of that board? ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2021, 2:48am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/14 "2021-11-27T02:48:55Z")
I do have a multi meter and there is no chips on the bottom of the board everything on the top. ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 5:54am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/15 "2021-11-28T05:54:49Z")
Took the chip off and there are a few things on the back as well… Attaching pics of the back of the chip… ![PXL_20211127_204227353](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/3/38a2939514d279b78880342a52b0126a4381f4c8.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 5:55am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/16 "2021-11-28T05:55:32Z")
![PXL_20211127_204409826](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/6/6c4e504c94a3986af70ba8bf3998ff150533546e.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 5:56am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/17 "2021-11-28T05:56:44Z")
![PXL_20211127_204444705](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/5/586e702e716741799bbb0dd18e612e566c9a376a.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![divsys](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a3d4f5/32.png) [@divsys](https://wled.discourse.group/u/divsys)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 5:03pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/18 "2021-11-28T17:03:59Z")
Ok, that starts to make a little more sense (I think). I’m guessing you “sacrificed” the last node in your string as it appears to have Data In but no Data Out (although the pad is there). Have you mentioned whether these are 5V or 12V strings? As far as reverse engineering the board circuit, here’s the components were dealing with: ![N_Mosfet_Pinout](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/5/5f91d36faf52524dfcefa061090b8b8e25f9584b.png) MOSFET to handle the current drive for the White LED’s ![RGB_5050_Pinout](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/b/be75793d8c6b770ebe6babd57bd9f6a15ae0ccb7.jpeg) 3 pieces of “dumb” RGB LED’s, I’m guessing they’re setup in series(?) on the WS2811 driver pins. ![WS2811_Pinout](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/3/322d1a5065fc29e4a8ff0c219590827bb0e28e99.png) 2 of these, I’m guessing one drives the RGB LED’s and the other uses one channel of R,G,B(???) to drive the White LED’s through the MOSFET. So go ahead and see what you can find out! I would suggest you verify the power lines first, Veeery likely Black is GND and Red is V+, but worthwhile verifying. Check that Black goes to pin 4 on both WS2811’s and Red to pin 8 (maybe through a small resistor 51R0?) Next the “data path”, check the Data In line (white wire on the back of the board) should go to one or other of the WS2811’s DIN pin 6. It maybe through a small resistor (51R0 ?). The DO pin 5 of that WS2811 should then go to DIN pin 6 of the **other** WS2811. That 2nd WS chip’s DO pin 5 should go to the unused Data Out pad on the back of the board (to the left of the White wire in your last photo). Next will be figure out which chip controls which LED’s. We’ll call the first WS2811 in the data chain WS1 and the other WS2. Check the RGB pins individually on WS1 or WS2 for connection to the Gate pin on the MOSFET, Q1. Again it maybe through a resistor or possibly not. Once you’ve found it, this WSx will be the White driver chip and the channel (R,G,or B) will be the one you set for white brightness. The other WSx chip should connect to the 3 RGB LED’s which should be in series(?) on the output pins. Give it a try and see what you find (we’d love to know). ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 7:35pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/19 "2021-11-28T19:35:31Z")
Sorry forgot to add they are 12v and yeah sacrificed the last light in the string. They are Govee and their controller sucks which is why I’m trying to get WLED working with them. ---
**Author:** ![galluccib](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6a8cbe/32.png) [@galluccib](https://wled.discourse.group/u/galluccib)\ **Post date:** [November 28, 2021, 7:36pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/need-help-getting-lights-to-work/4101/20 "2021-11-28T19:36:29Z")
The Govee lights I’m using are - > **[Govee Bluetooth 96ft(48ft2) RGBW Outdoor String Lights, Patio Lights App...](https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Connectable-Christmas/dp/B09DFGM7S2)** > > Govee Bluetooth 96ft(48ft2) RGBW Outdoor String Lights, Patio Lights App Control, IP65 Waterproof Color Changing Lights 30 LED Bulbs with DIY and 8 Scene Modes, Connectable and Dimmable for Christmas - - Amazon.com