# Strip Flashing White **URL:** \ **Category:** Issues\ **Created:** [February 11, 2026, 1:08pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176 "2026-02-11T13:08:40Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2026, 1:08pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/1 "2026-02-11T13:08:40Z")
Sorry to keep asking questions here, but I’m almost done with this big build and I have one more question. My build has 8 different LED strips connected to 8 different pins on the ESP board. Most of them are working fine, but 2 are flickering/flashing white every few seconds. (See video) [https://youtu.be/c9dYuik\_MMg?si=Ls-b9Tw\_n\_q\_E7Ym](https://youtu.be/c9dYuik_MMg?si=Ls-b9Tw_n_q_E7Ym) All the strips are fed with the same power supply and have a common ground. There is about 3’ of cable between the ESP board and the strips. What causes a flickering like that? Thank you so much for all your help. ---
**Author:** ![dedehai](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/wled.discourse.group/dedehai/32/7265_2.png) [@dedehai](https://wled.discourse.group/u/dedehai)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2026, 1:52pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/2 "2026-02-11T13:52:40Z")
data corruption / noise on data line. need a clean wiring with no ground loops and the proper level shifter circuit. [Wiring Guides - WLED Project](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/wiring-guides/) ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2026, 2:06pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/3 "2026-02-11T14:06:54Z")
I thought it might just be a signal issue. I originally had the ESP board inside the sphere, and thus had less connection points, then I ran into heat issues so I moved the ESP board outside the sphere and added about 3 feet of wire. I’m guessing I have a bad connection somewhere in there. I don’t think cable length or gauge is an issue because most of the strips are fine. I must just have a bad connection point on those two. Currently it goes through 2 soldered connections as well as the header pin on the ESP and a JST connector at the strip. The 2 soldered connections were added when I moved the ESP board out of the sphere. ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2026, 7:24pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/4 "2026-02-11T19:24:29Z")
100% corrupt data. Add levelshifter and resistor. You _Might_ get away with just a resistor on the data line. I would try 33R ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 1:35am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/5 "2026-02-12T01:35:39Z")
I’ve tried redoing all the connections and I’m still getting intermittent flickering. Time for a level shifter. You’ll have to excuse my inexperience. Looking at level shifters on Amazon I found this one that can do 8 channels, which is exactly what I need. [https://a.co/d/04WgbL0G](https://a.co/d/04WgbL0G) I’m assuming the 8 data connections from WLED go to A1-A8 and B1-B8 go to a resistor and then on to the LEDs, right? I would also send 5v to VB and ground to GND. Do I need to connect VA and OE? Use a resistor like this? > **[Amazon.com: Chanzon 30pcs 2W 0.1 Ω ohm 0r1 r1 Metal Film Fixed Resistor 0.01 ±1%...](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=shunt+resistor)** > > Buy Chanzon 30pcs 2W 0.1 Ω ohm 0r1 r1 Metal Film Fixed Resistor 0.01 ±1% Tolerance 0.1R MF Through Hole Resistors Current Limiting Rohs Certificated: Resistors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases Thank you in advance for all your help! ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 2:32am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/6 "2026-02-12T02:32:05Z")
This shifter would be a better choice: [10PCS SN74HCT245N SN74HCT245 74HCT245 DIP-20 Octal Bus Transceivers with 3-State Outputs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific](https://www.amazon.com/SN74HCT245N-SN74HCT245-74HCT245-Transceivers-3-State/dp/B0FPQZ1GZL?th=1) The TXS0108E does not work as well and people have had issues using them. Your resistor link just brings me to a search page for resistors. Try this: [California JOS 100pcs 33 ohm Resistor 1/2w (0.5Watt) ±1% Tolerance Metal Film Fixed Resistor, Multiple Values of Resistance Optional(33 ohm, 33 R, 33 Ω): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific](https://www.amazon.com/California-JOS-Resistance-CJ50-003-33/dp/B0BDKR2DF3/) Or you could buy one of the kits that come with several different values. Note: Many don’t include 33ohm so check specs if you decide to get a kit of resistors. You would also need the .1uF (100nF) ceramic capacitor as shown in the pic: [Cermant 100pcs 100nf Ceramic Disc Capacitor,0.1uf DIP Electronic Components,104,Ceramic Chip Capacitor (100nf 0.1uf): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific](https://www.amazon.com/Cermant-Ceramic-Capacitor-Electronic-Components/dp/B09XV2H8JQ/) > **[Levelshifters - Other Hardware - WLED Project](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/#levelshifters)** > > Still under construction, feel free to add to the list! ![LS_245_R2](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/3/32c59f763bbaf0464758819e1816be6d7ff625d0.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:11am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/7 "2026-02-12T03:11:10Z")
Awesome Thank You!! All of those pieces can pop into a bread board for testing right? ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 5:52am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/8 "2026-02-12T05:52:01Z")
yes, but be mindful that breadboards very often make poor connections and you may still see problems. Just a little wiggle is enough to make things flicker when using them. ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 12:59am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/9 "2026-02-13T00:59:24Z")
Ok I also got a socket and a perfboard so I can solder it all when I know it’s all working. ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 1:17am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/10 "2026-02-13T01:17:15Z")
Yes. I definitely recommend using a socket. That way if the chip ever dies it’s simple to change. The 100nF cap should be placed close to the vcc and ground of the shifter. Easiest way is like in my pic: ![20241015_192550](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/d/d75c404de90bb750be480e6037a8248c4fafd7ad.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 2:29am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/11 "2026-02-13T02:29:55Z")
Sounds good. Thank you for the pic, that definitely helps. ---
**Author:** ![saratoga](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/3d9bf3/32.png) [@saratoga](https://wled.discourse.group/u/saratoga)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 5:16pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/12 "2026-02-13T17:16:41Z")
You can also buy similar level shifters, although built with generic clone parts instead of real AHCTs: [https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808439774099.html](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808439774099.html) They’re not quite as good (note the 4v peak amplitude), but for 3-wire LED cable they’ll do \>15m easily: ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/e/ebe1d4b6aa2ae0a69b1deef72d37c9b312895a08.jpeg) But fine for DIY purposes. ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 14, 2026, 9:59pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/13 "2026-02-14T21:59:45Z")
Is my diagram correct? Data comes in from the 8 data pins on the left and goes out through screw terminals on the right. The power is distributed around the edges of this board. Rows A-E and F-J are bridged on the back of the board but I would cut the traces where the resistors are. Is where I’m placing the capacitor correct? ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/7/7195baf786058cd72f6dac0fe6259488b2dcfa00.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Jinx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c6cbf5/32.png) [@Jinx](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Jinx)\ **Post date:** [February 15, 2026, 1:20am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/14 "2026-02-15T01:20:56Z")
Looks good. If you can keep your Esp close to the shifter that would be ideal. By that I mean within a few inches and not wires running like a foot or something lol. ---
**Author:** ![saratoga](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/3d9bf3/32.png) [@saratoga](https://wled.discourse.group/u/saratoga)\ **Post date:** [February 15, 2026, 8:05pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/15 "2026-02-15T20:05:20Z")
The bypass cap is meant to _bypass_ the ground and power traces on the PCB by connecting directly between VCC and GND pins on the chip. If you connect the ground end of the cap through the ground traces like that then it no longer bypasses them and is a lot less effective. A better way to put it would be between F10 and E10 and then run short jumper wires to the VCC/GND pins on the chip. ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 16, 2026, 11:49am UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/16 "2026-02-16T11:49:54Z")
Oh ya the ESP will be right next to the level shifter. If I can find 8 outputs in a row I’ll just put a socket on the board and pop the ESP board right into that. ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 16, 2026, 12:17pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/17 "2026-02-16T12:17:31Z")
That was the part I was the most confused about. So the capacitor goes between E10 and F10. E10 jumpers to E20, F10 jumpers to F11. Does voltage and ground still connect to the perimeter of the board in the upper right? And does ground still and voltage still connect to connect to all the same places I have it on my diagram in addition to the capacitor jumpers? I’m just not used to connecting ground and voltage, usually that results in 💥 ---
**Author:** ![saratoga](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/3d9bf3/32.png) [@saratoga](https://wled.discourse.group/u/saratoga)\ **Post date:** [February 16, 2026, 5:08pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/18 "2026-02-16T17:08:58Z")
Yes, voltage and ground still connect to the power supply normally. The capacitor “bypasses” these at high frequencies by storing charge locally that can be provided near-instantly when the level shifter switches from low to high. Without it, additional charge must travel from the power supply and so voltage will dip during switching, distorting the output signal. The key part though is that the charge is stored locally, and ideally very locally, so you put the capacitor as directly between the chip VCC and GND as possible. Addressable strips are fairly forgiving, so bad capacitor placement is usually well tolerated, but its not hard to do correctly so I always recommend doing it right. ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 16, 2026, 5:46pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/19 "2026-02-16T17:46:52Z")
Sounds good. Thank you for the explanation too! ---
**Author:** ![Gullwingdmc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/278dde/32.png) [@Gullwingdmc](https://wled.discourse.group/u/Gullwingdmc)\ **Post date:** [February 20, 2026, 9:36pm UTC](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176/20 "2026-02-20T21:36:59Z")
Sorry to keep posting, I’m just on a trip and away from my project so all I can do is plan for when I get home. I think this updated drawing is correct based on what you recommended. Can you take a look @saratoga? Thank You! ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/wled/original/2X/2/2db49505bf24152eaecfa1775c96cbd40999fc5e.jpeg) [Next page](https://wled.discourse.group/t/strip-flashing-white/15176.md?page=2)