Using a proto card doesn’t really appeal to me, especially since it won’t be easy to hide all that afterwards.
Use a TX0108 why not but without being sure of the result…
While resting today, I cut and plugged in my LED strips and I have flickers and flashes due in my opinion to these famous 3.3V output from the GPIO pins.
I won’t hide the fact that I would like simple and efficient wiring.
You will tell me: easy solution.
Yes, of course, but would it work?
Knowing that I would use wago to connect each given pin together, the LED strips will therefore be in parallel.
You could likely use that BTF controller, though it will not have WLED on it and will be limited to whatever fx they have included on it.
If you still want to use the SN74xx shifter:
You would not need a very large bit of prototype board to solder the shifter to. It would even fit right under your Esp32 provided you used something to shield it from touching the components of the 2 boards. You can even buy a small project box to put your controller & level shifter in to make it look pretty.
Reattaching my pic; The yellow square is where my Esp32 sits (the right side has 2 rows of pins because I set it up for the std and the narrow versions of the Esp32 node mcu boards) and the pink/purple square within it is another 4 port level shifter in a 20pin dip socket (the size socket your 8 port shifter would use). The space they take up is very small.
The skinny pcb’s in this set: https://www.amazon.fr/Aihasd-Prototype-Universel-Circuit-planche/dp/B00VL1KHJQ are only 6 pins wide and you can just cut off the extra length if you would like it shorter. A 20pin dip socket would use a space on a pcb of 20 holes in length (21 would give you space for the capacitor) and 4 pins wide. That skinny board being 6 pins wide would give you extra solder space.
Wiring should be pretty simple on a perfboard.
Place the 100nF ceramic capacitor close to pin #20 (5V) and connect the other end to ground.
Note the recommendation for a separate gnd line included with the data line.
This makes sure you have a proper data connection for your strip.
Remember, data wiring is typically much lighter wire than your power connections.
As far as the power connections, 24V wiring is essentially the same as 12V wiring.
You just have a 24V supply instead of 12V.
Common ground (meaning all grounds are connected together) is required for all devices.
Great thank you for all this information, I just ordered the capacitors.
For the connection, if I understood correctly:
I connect the 5V to pin 1 and 20 and to the capacitor.
the capacitor to GND.
From A0 to A7 I connect each data cable that comes from the ESP32.
I have a doubt, each GPIO input must be connected to the GND of the 5V power supply or the 24V power supply. I find it strange to connect the DIN and the GNS together… ^^
And do we agree that the GPIO OUT is pins 11 to 18?
Last question: is the Data GND actually the GND of the LED strip?
I can’t wait to receive everything to start the connections, my project is starting to last and my partner is getting impatient ^^
I connect the 5V to pin 1 and 20 and to the capacitor.
the capacitor to GND.
Exactly
From A0 to A7 I connect each data cable that comes from the ESP32.
I have a doubt, each GPIO input must be connected to the GND of the 5V power supply
or the 24V power supply. I find it strange to connect the DIN and the GNS together
A0 - A7 connect to a GPIO pin OR to GND, not both at the same time.
The diagram shows an “X” where you would disconnect GND and connect a GPIO instead.
And do we agree that the GPIO OUT is pins 11 to 18?
If by “GPIO OUT” you mean data for the LEDs, then yes.
Last question: is the Data GND actually the GND of the LED strip?
It’s definitely the simple solution for many cases where the controller is too far or the jump between 2 strips is too far. Added bonus is that it removes the level shifter issue altogether as the typical RS485 boards are 3.3V input compatible and 5V output.
By plugging in a strip it’s good but as soon as I plug in another it wobbles.
Honestly I want to abandon this project with RGBW to switch to white LED strips that I can dim more easily.
I still share my work with you, I applied myself eh!?
I had that problem once with regular RGB WS28xx strings and it turned out that I had somehow confused my soldering traces and somehow connected something wrong and messed up my shifter. don’t remember 100% what it was but I keep thinking it involved a short from ground to 5v.
Also worthwhile to make sure all '245 inputs are either connected to a GPIO or GND (not both).
Don’t leave floating inputs.
The '245 should be pretty bullet-proof, if one channel works any should work.
I’d try 2 completely different channels (one at a time) from the 1st test, to make sure the issue is really “adding a 2nd channel” and not a wiring issue.
