FCOB strip questions

Hi,
I got this LED strip (5m version)

At the moment I got this config:
image

it works ok, but during the color transition the strip is flashing like crazy

Also I was wondering how to you know the correct amount of LED to set for this strip?
is it one per WS2811 IC Chip?

Thanks!

Video of the flashing:

You likely need a level shifter

Hoo interesting, didn’t know about that.
Which one should I use for this application?

@Phantom Hi
the stripe itself got only 60IC so only 60 adrassable segments with 36 LED/Node eatch

WHAT controller are you using with a simople WEMOS D1 ESP8266 you are well up to the thing without a levelshifter but use a RESISTOR for the Firt led to avoid backpower

I would advise using the SN74AHCT125N

https://wled.discourse.group/t/help-for-a-beginner-please/

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hummm, if I set 60 LED in the configurations the strip doesn’t light up all the way. It lights up completely only when I set it to 100.

The controller I’m testing with is a ESP 8266 indeed. I have some ESP32 S3 I could also test with.

I tried using a 150Ω resistor on the data line, but it actually made things worse.
This is how “solid color” displays now.

@Phantom with the 8266 you dont need the Levelshifter as it outputs the 5V

TRY configure 10LED see how many Nodes/Led are displayd on Segment 0 LED 0-10
Try to add a segment LED 5-6 give it a other color or even a Effect like fade or chase
See howmany led got the effect
if you dont like unwinding the spule increse the number LED in the new Segment 8-9 so it showes the end only
Power is a big issue on your setup you can kill the first IC_s without a resistor likewise 1k at your test wire length
Problem is you shoudt injekt power after at least 300Node/LED you only can incect at start and end
Please give the V+ also at the END of the stripe

DO not use white only RED and green for testing IC behavior

That’s not correct.

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Yep. Esp8266 is 3.5v output from the GPIO’s. Level Shifter highly suggested.

So I finally received the level shifter!
My wiring looks like this:

At first it wasn’t helping much, but then I started probing and realized there is about 0.5v drop somewhere. Even though I supply 5v to the 5v rail I ended up with 4.5v at the IC.

So I pumped up the voltage input voltage to get around 5v at the chip and now it seemed to be much better for a while, but now it’s back to random flickering and color changes :\

Did you add the .1uF (100nF) Ceramic bypass capacitor close to the chip, connect the unused inputs to ground and the unused OE’s to + as the pic in the KB suggests? :wink:


When adding the .1uF (100nF) I find it easier to put it at the top in that pic between 1OE and Vcc vs how it’s shown at the bottom of the chip.

I would also lower your voltage back to 5v, over that and you are risking damage to the Esp.
-You can’t really measure the data signal output. You would need an oscilloscope for that.

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Hey!
I thought since the OE’s pins are to disable the outputs it wouldn’t make a difference other than maybe saving some power, but I will try to disable them to see if it helps.

I also have a resistor for the data (but maybe too strong? 1k) and had a 1000nF Electrolytic capacitor + a .1uF ceramic capacitor on the 5v rail. (i simplified the PCB screenshot)

The 4.50v I was measuring was not for the Data, but for the Vcc on the chip.

Nonetheless, I will try a setup similar to the example you provided to see if that does it. It’s starting to be quite messy on a breadboard though :sweat_smile: maybe I will order some prototype PCB instead.

I appreciate the help!

4.50V for Vcc is OK but barely, I’d look for voltage drop on your power lines or perhaps try a dedicated/separate supply for the ESP board.

As well as the 100nF (0.1uF) ceramic cap (as close to the '125 Vcc as possible), definitely make sure you handle all the floating/unused inputs on the 74AHCT125 as shown in the wiring diagram. That’s essential to prevent unwanted switching noise from adding flicker to your setup.

As far as a data resistor 1K is very large, start without one and solve the other mentioned items first. Proper power for the LEDs and the ESP will be much more important.

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Take a look to my PCB :wink:
https://wled.discourse.group/t/once-more-esp8266-based-wled-controller/11130
You solder ony, what you will need. No pain, work’s well “out of the box” :sunglasses:

haha great PCB however where would be the fun in having no pain? :sweat_smile:

Well that was very helpful, I finally got it working perfectly!
Ended up making a small proto board and used a buck converted to produce the 5v for the Esp32

Wiring looks like this

Result:

Thanks all for the help, much appreciated!

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