I can confirm. You just don’t check serpentine. And really no need for a map in 1D. In practice, you’d just set it up in 2D and the 1D effects play on it quite nicely. And even if you did set it to 1D, the effects would just flow from the bottom of one strand to the top of the next and it would still look “correct”.
That was my understanding (I haven’t built any 2D matrices yet, parts on order…)
My thoughts on ledmap were for cases where you might want a serpentine looking chase.
For eg. if you want a moving dot to traverse down Col1 and at the bottom traverse up Col2, then down Col 3, etc.
I quickly soldered the matrix with a zigzag connection to check how it would work when connecting the bottom LED of the 1st strip to the top of the second strip. Everything works fine if you don’t put the “serpentine” checkbox, as you advised. I checked it on the “Scrolling Text” effect. Thank you!
But I still couldn’t understand why the mode was made without the “serpentine” mark. 
Artacus, I have a question for you. I was going to the KNOW SHINE Store to buy the 4-wire tape that you wrote about above. I need to fulfill an order for several thousand LEDs, and the purchase will be very expensive for me. Therefore, I am very afraid of making a mistake when purchasing by making the wrong choice of tape.
The store sells 2 types of 4-wire tapes. One WS2812 tape for 5V
, with a pitch of 5 cm, and one WS2815
tape for 12V, with a pitch of 5 and 10 cm
(below are 2 screenshots from the store).
I found a wiring diagram for the WS2815 controller.
According to the diagram, the 4th wire connects the controller input “L1” “DI” to the controller input “L2” “BI”. It is not clear from the diagram that the 4th wire passes “through and through” the entire tape.
How, then, can you transmit a signal from the bottom of the tape (curtains) to the top of the tape, as you did (above)? Indeed, in this case, the “BI” wire should be like a jumper with a resistance of “0” Ohm (short circuit). A huge request to you! Please explain how this works in your scheme? Where am I going wrong? Remove my doubts)).
Thank you in advance!
The upper (5V) style of LEDs with the labelled “Return” wire is designed with WS2812B controllers.
Standard DI connected to DO, just like in the lower pic, but no BI connections.
The extra Return wire is just a continuous piece that has been added to the usual 3-wire setup.
If you measure resistance from start to end you’ll get a very low value (continuity).
The lower (12V) style is a different chipset altogether - WS2815.
The data protocol for these in WLED is the same (WS281x), but the extra BI line has a completely different function. It’s a “Backup Input” to allow the WLED data to bypass a failed LED so the entire string doesn’t stop after one LED goes bad. That line won’t work for the LED matrix setup that @Artacus has documented.
divsys, if I understood correctly, then in order to repeat the artacus design, I should buy the WS2812 tape (which is on the top screen)? The 4th wire there is simply a return wire with very low resistance. I understood everything correctly (difficulties in translation)?
Yes, the 5V version is correct. The 4th wire is just a return wire and can be used for anything you want.
Thank you!
Hey Folks, sorry if I missed this detail… I get the 4th wire and serpentine. I have a curtain set similar to the Govee. The main wire along the top sends the same data down every vertical light strip. They act in unison. Is there any reasonable way to have them act individually, or is it just less trouble getting a roll of the the 4 wire lights?
You would need to get the hook sub-controllers that are configured for the number of pixels you have in each drop, probably either 10 or 20. And you would probably have to rewire the top to incorporate those sub-controllers. KnowShine got a set of sub-controllers for NotEnoughLights as we were trying to figure out a way to build custom curtains. I believe they were a buck or two each.
Given that it is probably low resolution (10cm), it is probably not worth the effort. If you don’t want to build your own, search WLED Discord or Reddit for ones others have been able to get working with WLED.
You would need one of the curtains that looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/HOLILLUMA-Curtain-Festival-Function-Decorations/dp/B0BXD132W2 The listings show that they do images. But as Artacus said they are all 10cm spacing.