That’s probably approximately correct, no way of knowing for sure without actually measuring.
Suppliers are notoriously inaccurate with their LED data.
The real question is: Why does it matter?
Whatever power supply (and wiring, injection points, fuses, etc.) you use to drive these needs to be adequate for the whole setup. The specs of 21W/m will give you some reasonable numbers to deal with the worst case power (100% White).
If you design the power supplying these properly, WLED doesn’t really care what each LED (or block it can address) actually draws. The Automatic Brightness Limiter is just a bit of a Kludge to deal with improperly powered setups. For me, it’s most useful feature is that it gives me an idea what my setup might be drawing in real time without hooking up a meter. But in order for it to do that even close to accurately, I typically have to have measured the LED’s actual draw in worst case - with a meter.
So to sum up, you can use the info you’ve got to get a rough idea of what you’ll need power wise. Design your power cabling, etc. with some reserves in mind and you should be OK. If you want to know for sure what’s going with your worst case power draw - measure it.
Don’t rely on WLED’s ABL power figures when designing your setup’s power requirements.
Well, I saw the setting and figured I’d have to set it up correctly plus I was hoping a bit that it would optimize brightness similar to the mA limiter. But doesn’t seem like it.
the brightness/mA-limiter is set to 4’800mA for my 12V, 5A power supply, so I guess I should be all good on that front.
plus I was hoping a bit that it would optimize brightness similar to the mA limiter. But doesn’t seem like it.