Post a diagram of your setup.
What version of WLED are you running?
What type of levelshifter do you have?
Have you made sure there’s common ground between your data supply and your power supply?
OK looks like you’re at the mercy of that “Ericsity” controller, I’m not familiar with that design at all.
The levleshifter and common ground issues should be handled by the controller, but there’s not much you can do if they’re not.
You could try a few things:
Change the output from GPIO2 to GPIO5 both in WLED and your wiring.
Decrease the total LEDs in WLED down to a small number (10) to see if you’re having power issues.
In addition to (2) wire the strip power directly to the supply (using the 2 "flying white-red wires) instead of through the plugin barrel connector. Those plugins are only typically good to 3A - no matter what is printed on the controller box.
I did 1) and 2) without success. Although, i am now getting something odd. With the lights turned off in the Wled app (or with the on/off) button on the controller these lights remain on? Weird.
Out of interest, would you recommend a better controller (ideally plug and play) with these lights? I love the idea of WLED and was looking forward to customising the effects.
The reason i chose these lights was i wanted COB lights and i needed the 10mm width. BTF lighting do some COB 12v 10mm width lights but i can’t get them in the UK currently. Otherwise would go with any 10mm COB lights with a recommended setup. Thanks again.
If they were on at the moment you changed the number of LEDs it’s normal for them to stay that way since they’re not getting a signal anymore, they just keep current state.
Would need to see photos of the internals of that controller to be sure, but it’s possible they didn’t put a level shifter in so it works with 5V strips but not with 12/24. Wouldn’t be the first time a manufacturer decided to cash on something popular without understanding the whole thing.
I’m also in UK, had a similar issue, went with the 24v BTF Cob strips with a 1cm width to fit a specific LED profile, I could not get them to work, until … I bought a QuinLED dig-quad, works absolutely fine and only needs the 24v supply as the ESP is supplied internally. I spent days researching, building circuits, adding resistors, shifters etc. Order the QuinLED, you can thank me later only downside it you’ll need to order from China so shipping takes a while …
I was (am) in the same boat, if it helps the 24v strips you have are great, I have the 768 Led version, under a 1cm height diffuser you cannot see any LEDs. I needed 2m strips so had to cut the strip and reattach cables, unless you are a very competent soldered, do jot attempt soldering, just buy the connector instead, there are specific ones for the 3&4 wire BTF cob strips. I have 10m which consists are 5x2m strips. There is some voltage drop, only I noticed it, but I made sure I ran extra power injector wires.