Hi, so I am actually new to this and I am trying to figure out how to do it has I go. I currently installing 8 lamps 3 meters long each amounting to 1440 leds ws2812b 5v. I have 2 power suplys each one controling 4 lamps. I just got the esp 32 cause the 8266 I had was not cutting it for so many leds. My problem is the 4 lamps that are powering the esp seem to work ok. However the other 4 flicker. I have connected the COM of the 2 power suplys together and I also make sure to adjust the power suply voltage was the same between the 2. Not sure what’s the problem, Currently using the pin 18,19,22 and 23 passing trought workarround logic level shifter with 4 leds not sure I need it but was for each one of the pins that I am using. Not sure what could be the problem. Been trying to put it to work and everytime I find a new thing. If anyone has any idea what I could do, I am all ears. Thanks
mm not real sure how you have this all wired. If you could show/draw a diagram of how it’s all wired it would help. Also not sure what you mean when you say you have the COM of the 2 power supplies connected together.
@Jinx Com is GND in asia and Europ
@AlexVfx as you say fliggering it means Power issue as of the LED do the Sended Command
or if they dont show the commanded effect it means that you need a LEVELSHIFTER or shorten the line to the first LED in a Stripe to the ESP port to max 1feed
this is my configuration so far its a bit confusing but I think it has everything , I have a wire between the 2 negative terminals(dc power) of the power supply. i am assuming the 2 different power supply is causing some problems because when I change the esp to be power by the psu 2 on the diagram the the lamps power by the ps1 start flickiring.
so far i have this homemade level shifter.
they are displaying the correct effects however they flicker, I am in doubt if the data line could be causing the problem as temporarily the wires are just twisted together for preliminary test. could this be the cause of the flicker?
ok, update, so i have been running some tests, the logic level shifter is doing something as if I remove it from the system it doesn’t even show proper effects, I solder the data signals so the signal is cleaner, and I have swap the power supply in thinking there could be a problem but after all the problem still here, anyone knows if there is a configuration on the LED preferences I should look at? when the segments are correctly assign 2 lamps for each pin, its seems it doesn’t flicker as much but its still present not sure what to test now, I will try to take the negative terminal of booth power supply and connected to negative terminal on the esp directly just to make sure, whoever booth negative terminals are already connected, so I don’t really know whats the problem. if anynon has any intel could be useful be very grateful.
new update(progress) i did connect the 2 grounds between the power supply and the esp 32 and now the flicker its non existent however there is a occasional color swap flicker happening in some lamps. so the problem is almost fix but not really. 
What chip/circuit is your Level Shifter based on?
https://youtu.be/ZFO_QOBG9Bs?t=657 saw this workaround, found the link from the FAQ in Wled not sure where, will add if I find it.
What that video describes, is a “sacrificial pixel” levelshifter.
Unfortunately, the way they describe it and install it is wrong.
In order for a sacrificial pixel to work as a “poor man’s” levelshifter, the power for the single LED must be applied through a power diode. That drops the supply voltage down to 4.3V for the sacr. pixel and (very roughly) brings the 3.3V ESP input data closer to spec and the ~4.3V output data closer to what the rest of the 5V LED’s want.
In general, you should be using one of the valid Levelshifters described in the KB.
For your setup, I would suggest a 74AHCT32 or 1/2 of 74AHCT245.
You may or may not have other issues with your setup but until you eliminate the data stream as a possible source of your trouble, you’re stuck chasing variables.
You might also read up on the Long Data Lines section of the KB for guaranteed methods of getting a good shifter and long data lines at the same time.
180 5v pixels powered from only 1 end is a lot. You likely need to inject power farther down the strip or at it’s far end. Do you see less issues if you set the brightness lower? or the # of LEDs lower?
That sacrificial pixel/level shifter setup in my eyes would not have ever been worth all the time and effort you put into it. Save yourself the headache and use one of the ones divsys suggested. How far is that shifter thing from the Esp and how far are the first pixels in the strips from the shifter thing? A sac’ pixel is really only likely to get you a distance of 10ft give or take…
Myself I would add another ground wire from the other set of strips to the Esp. Your image does show common ground between everything but you would have a much more direct path from the Esp to the strips on PSU2 if you had a wire between them and not the round about way of it having to travel to psu1 first. *Granted I don’t know what distances any of this actually is between them. If it’s not very far then the current ground should be fine.
The ground wire through the 2 psu they are about 2 meters distance from one another, The only problem is the time to receive that part and re-do the lamps altogether, we are on a tight schedule to open and kind of wanted to solve the issue with parts at hand, true be told redoing it I can double make sure all soldered wires and strip are fine as I know that could be the issue and would probably solve the problem.About the Wled in the esp interface there’s something on my mind too about what are the corrects information I have to put on there, I have 2 Psu 200w 5v that’s 40A or 40000mA I think the led strips works better when I use the option use per-output limiter checked as preliminary tests, maybe less flickering(not conclusive). in the interface menu I have 4 Led outputs and the option to add psu current in mA since I want it to a bit bellow max amps I have it at 15000mA in each 4 of the outputs, I am in doubt if its right.
thanks for the advice i was checking about these you mentioned and they are pretty cool in how they work, but I already 3d printed the enclosure, and adding the extra part for each lamp would require to print 8 new parts and add CAT wires to the system and its rather impossible on time and waiting for the part. So I will consider it for next installations as the serial connections seems very solid. i had another question about psu values I mentioned in the response to @Jinx if you wanted to give a look yourself, I am quite baflle on exactly what some options does in the LED Preferences like “off refresh” checkbox or "use Global Led Buffer. is there some setting I could change specific to my setup, having 2 psu per example?
Your power supplies should have enough power for the LEDs. I would just turn off the brightness limiter and not bother entering values for it. The problem you have is that you can not send enough power through the thin copper traces of the LED strips to power 180 LEDs at higher brightness levels. You should/need to add more power wires either further down the strips or at their far ends.
See Pic 1:
Also trying to run that data line all the way back to the beginning for each second strip may be too far without a data booster. 3m is getting in the range of the max distance you can reliably expect the data to go after being regenerated from the last pixel of a strip to the next strip. You would have been better off flipping every other strip the other way around and running the short(er) distance from one to the other at both of the strips far ends.
See Pic 2:
Another option would be to use 8 data pins on the Esp. 1 for each strip.
See Pic 3:
I would HIGHLY advise adding fuses to your power outputs to the LEDs close to your PSU’s and make sure your wires are rated for the current you intend to pass through them.
Seeing that you already have this all setup I would start with option 1 and go from there.
-You still did not say how far your strip is from your level shifter thing. Using a pixel to upscale date to 5v logic will not get you the same distances as using a true level shifter. Generally a pixel is said to be good for 3m give or take (dependent on several real world factors).
Other questions:
-Can changing values help your issue? Yes and/or No
Turning off the brightness limiter will allow WLED to use the full 255 levels of brightness. Your power supplies should be able to handle that, so I would turn it off.
-What is Off Refresh?
Off Refresh is something that sends the Off data signals (color black/brightness 0) to the LEDs every so often. This helps keep the LEDs off if for some reason some rogue noise on the data line triggers one and or a few LEDs to illuminate while they are supposed to be off. This is only useful for people that leave the power always On to their LEDs. Even if you have WLED turned Off your LEDs are still drawing power and can/will degrade their driver/resistors over time. Solution? Turn off the power to the LEDs when not in use, either by way of unplugging them, using a smart plug on the power supplies, or use of a relay(s).
-What is Use Global Led Buffer?
It improves the WLED brightness controls as well as the brightness limiter, at the cost of using more memory.
https://kno.wled.ge/ has loads of info 
thanks for the info, i realize looking at your suggestion I drew my setup wrong (corrected now, if I didn’t forget other parts 
), I have it like your option 1 in my case there’s a 0.75mm wire inside the lamp going to booth ends, I will take your suggestions and the next project I work will place power input by booth ends so I can power whoever I want it and also add data in and out signal in booth ends too, feels like would give so much freedom but only when need lamps again. My setup was focus on just one side, probably running esp for each individual would work best whoever I did see recommendation Multi-strip Support - WLED Project also I think I would really need to add the serial encoder decoder on the LED strips, that 's something I am not going to do in this project but will take into considerations on my next attempt at this, for now I think I will follow your other recommendations also remember to add a relay or a smart plug before the power supply too because they are noisy, the plan would also 3d print in TPU some sort of enclosure or mounted brackets so I can try to minimize the noise, thanks for the informative response I will install all the fuses and the smart plug and then I will revisit the occasional flicker problem that seems to happen more often when brightness is at max. so I wont use it at max for now.
