ESP8266 requires reset before WLED will start

I have noticed this issue in newer batches of ESP8266’s (and only in the ESP-12E variant):

When power is introduced, WLED does not boot automatically - and consequently. the blue LED on the 8266 does not light. However, when the reset button is pressed, the blue LED lights and WLED boots.
Immediate subsequent power cycles work properly. If power is removed for several seconds and then reapplied, the issue occurs again.

I have tried several different batches of ESP8266’s from different vendors. The ESP-12F do seem to work while the ESP-12E do not.

I have used hundreds of the 12Es in the past with no problems - is anyone aware of anything recent that might be causing this issue?
Thanks!
Jason

@jasonsomers Welcome to the discousion

Ddi you check the install page // and install from this page direct online via browser

the older versions 13/ 14 seams not to show this issue

I only use the WEMOS D1 ESP8266 mod shield this does not show this behavior

@Aircoookie2 this needs to be invested

check the bootup voltages on the pins that require a special state during bootup. Or just add external resistors to see if it changes the behaviour.

Fresh installs using install.wled.me exhibit the same problem.
I have tried my own compiled 13.3, 14.4 and the new v15 beta. All exhibit the same problem.
I am not using the Wemos D1 mini. I am using the ESP12E/CP2102 like those found here:
Amazon.com

I have tried several different sources, and it seems that all of my new orders of these boards have this issue. The batch I received several months ago works fine.

My guess is that something changed on these and I was hoping that folks in this community might already know what it was.

@dedehai
Which pins require a special state? Again - I haven’t needed to do this before on these boards.
I see notes about GPIO1 and 2 needing to be pulled High to boot. Would this conflict with anything in WLED if I have my two outputs assigned to these GPIOs?

No one has else has this issue?
I find that hard to believe…

Turns out that adding a pullup resistor to GPIO1 resolves the issue for me.
While I know this isn’t a WLED problem, it seems to me that if many folks end up having this issue it would be a concern.

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Good evening, I have just read your message, but not having much knowledge of electronics, can you explain your solution to me a little more so as not to have to do an RST to start editing. Sincerely.

I wired a 1K resistor btw VIN and GPIO1 (TX) pins on the ESP8266 and that worked fine - although we should NOT HAVE TO DO THIS if the controllers were designed properly.

Hello, thank you for your help, I applied your modification, it works very well. Thank you.

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it depends on the board you use, this is normally taken care of, as you said. There are many badly designed ESP boards out there.
Also: you should pull it to 3.3V and not Vin, if you do that with a small enough resistor, it will kill your ESP.

the datasheet states: “U0TXD (GPIO1) should not be pulled externally to a low logic level during the powering-up”

in a more readable version than the datasheet, this is also stated here:

Thanks on the clarification with the proper pull-up voltage…

Hi Jason, I have exactly the same problem as you is this the easiest solution or do you have a better solution? I am not the most technical. Thanks for your help!

What ESP board do you have?
Can you post a link?

NodeMCU ESP8266MOD from AliExpress

What GPIO(s) are you using to drive you LEDs?
Do you have a levelshifter?

The previous solutions have to do with the required Hi or Lo levels for some of the GPIO pins on startup of the ESP8266. If the board isn’t designed correctly (or adequately) use of those GPIOs can be a problem when the board is powered up/reset. See the link in msg#10 of this thread (5 back). That’s important info to understand about the ESP8266 boards.

You can try changing to a different GPIO to see if that alleviates the issue for your board (you’ll have to update your config in WLED to match).

The only way I got those boards to work was to solder a resistor to the board.
Didn’t want to do this on every one, so I ended up having to source a different ESP8266 - one that was actually designed properly.
Here’s the link for the one I got that actually works…
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806637214159.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.7ee018024Igmnj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

I get the USB-C CH9102X version…
Hope it helps.
-Jason