Hardware 5v -> 24v

hello here is my problem I have about 15 meters of cable between the output of my 5v transformer and my 5v led strip. I had planned everything in 5v but with the voltage drops it does not work.

my question : it exite equivalent 24v of my material in 5v?
I have :

  • led WS2812B (5v)
  • ESP8266 (5v)
  • 230v transformer → 5v 60a 300w
  • wled

I’m looking for this:

  • led WS2812B 24v
  • ESP8266 24v
  • transformer 230v → 24v 60a 300w
  • wled
    the 24v should be able to prevent the voltage drop enough for it to work.

You can do this without having to find 24V strips.
You use a 24V PS and add 24V->5V buck converters at your injection points on the strip (and one for the MCU board).
Your 24V power supply will probably need to be ~20% bigger (360W vs 300W) to deal with worst case losses in the converters, but your wiring requirements become much more reasonable.

24V LEDs usually sacrifice addressability - you have to change the colour on 6 LEDs rather than 1 - when they handle the higher voltage.

oh that’s a good idea!
but i need 24V->5V buck converters capable of supporting 300/350w so 60a if I understand correctly, does it exist ?

  • at the injection point of the LEDs I have a size limit (spot hole) I can’t put huge buck converters.
  • I can change the cables

You don’t use a single buck converter to handle the current for the whole strip.
You use multiple converters that handle just the current for your injection spot.
If you’re limited to size, you can use many smaller converters to give you multiple injection points.

I made a quick diagram, in my case with your solution. it would do that but the buck converters must still support 300watts, right ? if not will they explode ? ^^"

  • I can put only 1 power sup for the whole circuit

edit : I forgot to put a buck converter at the beginning of the led strip on the top diagram*

finally I’m going to change my leds and my power sup to 24v instead, it’s not very expensive and it’s easier for me. I was told that the volt of the data wire is not important for the LEDs.
I made a diagram and used the wled site for the calculations (see images).


  1. do the diagrams and calculations look good to you?

  2. 1000led for a 24v 300w 12a power sup is it ok?

  3. is the fuse really useful? knowing that before my power sup I have a 16a circuit breaker.

  4. it is advisable to inject at the beginning, middle and end of the led tape. Is it really useful to inject at the end of the led strip?

  5. if I inject in the middle of my led strip I have about 10/15 meters of 6mm² cable… it’s impossible to solder on a led strip with such a big cable, do you have any solutions?

  1. In general that’s a reasonable approach. I would tend towards a simpler levelshifter - one based on a 74AHCT125 or 74AHCT32. Simpler wiring and only one supply voltage to worry about. You might still have to think about Long Data Lines if you’re going to try a 15m data line. You could just keep the MCU closer to the strip. As well, I would consider getting an ESP32 based board instead of the ESP8266. Much more capable device for very little extra cost.

  2. That’s a typical rule of thumb calculation for addressable LEDs, 0.3W/LED. The reality will depend upon what you actually buy. If you read the specs and/or ask the manufacturer, you may get a better idea. Also note that’s a “worst case” scenario where all the LEDs are at 100% white.

  3. Fuses protect the wires they’re attached to. The 16A fuse on the input side of the PS protects the input wires NOT the output. If the input draws 5A, then the supply would be trying to supply 5A x 230V = more than 1000W. That won’t blow the input fuse but the output side could be trying to supply 1000W / 24V = 40A, which is waaaay more than you ever want to have happen on the 24V side.

  4. The strip itself is a piece of wire, typically they’re “modelled” as if they’re made of 22AWG (0.325mm²) wire. That means there will be a voltage drop in the strip itself. It doesn’t matter if you have a PS capable of 400A right next to the start of the strip, after a number of LEDs there will be a drop. The actual numbers involved will depend on the strip you buy, but if you use the same 0.3W/LED and 22AWG guess for the strip wiring you can come up with an approximation of how far you can go before injection is needed. The number of injection points will also change the number and sizes of fuses you need. Each injection line can be though of as a “separate power supply” designed to supply enough current for the LED’s to the left and right of the injection point. I recommend injections on the insides of your strip, not on the ends.
    It evens the current loads much better.

  5. For an injection point, you can use a short (<5cm) piece of more moderate wire (0.5mm²) that is reasonably easy to attach to the strip and then connect your full gauge wire to that piece. A short length won’t make any difference to your drops.

thanks for the answers !

  1. I didn’t quite understand the system with the differential pairs. you have other shemas with an esp32 that I realize ?

Diff pairs is a different way of transmitting 5V data over long distances.
Instead of a single wire for data (relative to Gnd, 0V), you use two wires A+, and B- that are relative to each other. When A+ is positive relative to B-, you’re sending a Hi bit and when it’s negative relative to B- you’re sending a Lo. The whole process is simple because it’s built into the MAX485 ICs that are designed for this.

You treat the TxRx boards like a pair of “black boxes” connected by 2 wires (and each powered by 5V). You feed data in at the Tx board and it comes out at the Rx board some distance away. Because of the 2 wire system the data transmission is much less prone to interference and losses.

hello

I’m coming back to you because I have a problem, I can’t give orders to my 24v LEDs. I have strictly wired as my diagrams above with the equipment indicated above.

anyone have an idea of the problem?

(small error on my diagrams obviously my power sup GND 5v are connect with my power sup GND 24v and not the positive)


There is no Ground going to your Esp8266 in that diagram. Also no ground on the level shifter.

there is an electric wire, it is grey/white, you haven’t seen it.

on the page of the level sifter it is marked “It uses two separate configurable power-supply rails, with the A ports supporting operating voltages from 1.65 V to 3.6 V while it tracks the VCCA supply, and the B ports supporting operating voltages from 2.3 V to 5.5 V while it tracks the VCCB supply. This allows the support of both lower and higher logic signal levels while providing bidirectional translation capabilities between any of the 1.8-V, 2.5-V, 3.3-V, and 5-V voltage nodes.”

when I don’t put a level shifter, I can control the LEDs but they flash randomly and change brightness (so i need a level sifter).

When I connect the level shifter (as on the diagrams above), I cannot control the LEDs.

I would do like divsys suggested and use one of the quoted level shifters.

Also if you are still trying to do this with a 15m data line, try putting the controller close to the strip and see if it works. 15m is likely too far even with a level shifter.

I’ll 2nd that comment, at 15m I’d be moving to TxRx pairs.
You could do that anyway as it will give you a different kind of “level shifter” to try.

  • Now I am testing. the level shifter is 20cm from the LEDs. in real condition it will be 2 meters from the LEDs. (it’s just the power supply that will be a lot further away, but I have a solution for that with several 230v → 24v buck converters.)

  • I had an “amazon” level sifter, I was advised a TX0102 or a 74AHCT125.
    I take the TX0102 it doesn’t work, they tell me to try with a 74AHCT125 or 74AHCT32…

    ok I’ll try… by deduction it’s the level sifter the problem…

Thats definitely where I`d try next…