Hey guys,
Once again, i got an issue, according to what i’ve read here i need a levelshifter. Am i wrong ?
In wled, im on solid red with no animation 
I would guess the need for a level shifter as well as changing the color order if that is supposed to be red and is showing green (least I think it was green hard to tell)
I would check in order:
- Ground from ESP to strip along with data.
- Colour order (try individual solid colours to verify they are correct)
- Proper levelshifter
You’ll likely need all three (in the end especially #3).
When you say “Ground from ESP to strip along with data” i dont get it 
may you explain more please 
I am curious to know one thing, is this problem common with ws2811 fcob 24v? because with ws2805 24v I do not have this problem, nor with ws285 12v
Your strip needs to have a common ground with the ESP. You probably do since without it will strobe/flicker violently but confirm (or show a picture of your wiring).
Additionally, you have the issue that the ESP puts out 3.3V signals and the ws2811 expects 5V. To correct this you need to increase the voltage on the data line. This can be done with an active level shifter (see: Other Hardware - WLED Project) or by using a twisted pair cable and a resistor to double the signal voltage and attenuate it down to ~5V. See here: Reddit - Dive into anything
Where you get into trouble is if you use bad cabling and too low of a voltage. Then the signal is weak and your cable ruins it further. This will sometimes be ok (your ws2805) and sometimes fail. It will also be very sensitive, moving the wires may break it.
Hi, there,
I also had problems with FCOB 24v LEDs, but thanks to Jinx and Divsys the problems are solved. Check out my linked topics.
Thanks again to Jinx and Divsys 
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Part of your issue there (aside from lack of the level shifter) may be the use of the 3 wire joined cable with a 24v system, which can be tricky to get right. In a 3 wire cable, half of the return current from the data line goes through the ground, half goes through the + voltage line (since the cable is symmetric with data in the middle wire). In a 5V system where the ESP and strip are on the same 5v supply this is no problem as the data return current will pass through the supply to the ESP ground, completing the circuit. This is speculation, but it would explain why you found that the circuit worked fine with a 5v ws2812b. When you went to the 24V strip, the ESP and strip no longer directly connect to the same supply, so the half of the return current on the 24v line doesn’t arrive at the ESP, resulting in reflections and distortion. The level shifter both increases the signal strength and also provides a cleaner path for the 24v line return current (via the capacitor you added).
If you run into more problems, try adding an extra 100nF from the 24v wire to the level shifter ground, that should further improve signal. I’d be curious to see if that made any difference.
What’s the length (and type) of wire from the ESP to the strip?
How are you powering the ESP?
Next step is get a proper levelshifter.
Yeah you need either a level shifter or to do the resistor+cable method. Just hooking them up like that might work with a 5v output, but it is a really bad idea at 3.3V.
18g from power source. And same as the wire from the led strip. I guess 22g. Powered with a 5v micro usbc
Thats for test at the moment.
Well i knew the levelshifter issue. I just wanted to clarify why woth you guys
Definitely the next step.
No level shifter and you’ve got the 3-wire cable issue as well. You can probably fix this with a 20 ohm resistor on the ESP data pin and a 100 nF between ESP ground and the red wire going to the strips, but a quin data booster is a few dollars and integrates he capacitor too so it’ll solve this problem for probably less than you’d spend buying these things individually from Amazon.
If these are BTF lighting FCOB lights the color order in LED Configuration needs to be changed to RGB.
As far as a level shifter, I think it is necessary for 24V but I believe you can also use a sacrificial LED in place of one since it should output the correct 5V signal even if it’s not getting a 5V input.
In the fewest words possible 