I’ve been playing with this bulb flashing it with different firmwares.
It is a nice bulb and very easy to take a part to have access to the TX/RX pins.
I flashed it with the WLED 0.13.0-b6 and configured to RGB+CCT.
I found that the CCT portion of the bulb is not working correctly and found that the pins for WW and CW are in fact to control Brightness and CT instead. So WLED is changing the Brightness when it should control the WW leds and changing the CT when it should control the CW.
Is there any setting that i’m not configuring correclty or WLED does not work with a Brightness and CT setup?
There is special build environment for Athom bulbs. Check platformio.ini
Thanks! I’ll check it out.
@blazoncekI tried compiling with
default_envs = athom7w but the behavior is the same.
The following table indicates what the WLED is providing and what the Bulb should be receiving.
||CT Brightness Output
Do I need to change something else in the firmware?
Compile with -D WLED_USE_IC_CCT
Thanks! that made it work
blazoncek to the rescue , good thing you fixed it , this light looks nice but isn’t a bit pricey for one light vs led string . I am asking and not criticizing because I also got the Hue stuff but now I want everything to be LEDs . Might be I should not rush .
@ALDIY Yeah! He knew exactly what to do.
I don’t think they are expensive. At $15 per bulb, compared to Hue, it is very cheap.
It is hard to compare a bulb against a string, they are for completely different purposes. For example, bulbs are more adequate for ambient lighting and strings are more intended for accent lighting. You still can use both for ambient, task and accent lighting but it is not optimal.
Yeah, don’t rush. I made that mistake when I started in the home automation hobby and now I have a bunch of bulbs, strings and controllers that I’m not going to use. My strategy now is to get a bulb, install it in an area that I can use it often and evaluate if it meets my needs in the long run.
So far the WIZ bulbs are the ones that fit best to my needs. The backdraw that I found is that you can’t control the transition time other than the fade in and out from their app. Other than that they work great with Home Assistant, the colors are accurate enough, they are bright and cheap!.
Thanks for the info , Two days ago I ordered 5 more ws2812b strips . I am sorry i could not help it
I will receive the bulb tomorrow. Is it possible for you to share the bin? Do I need to open the bulb and flash it manually? Or is OTA possible as there is a Tasmota installation on it?
Sure, here the firmware.bin.
In my case I had to open the bulb, very easy and non destructive. First you pop open the defuser (use a small flat screwdriver), then remove the PCB that contains the LEDs, it is just holded in place with thermal paste. Now you have access to the ESP. I soldered the wires directly from an USB Serial adapter and flashed it.
Thanks! Just flashed it OTA. I first flashed Tasmota minimal, then flashed your WLED.
Colors work great! The white not so much. When I slide the color to warm, the light is still blueish. Do you have the same result? Or do I need some tweaking?
To be honest, I don’t remeber. I’m not home untill next week so I can’t verify. I’ll let you know during next week.
I think it is working as it suppose to do. I was just confused because Hyperion gives me no blue, but just white. But in WLED Itself all colors look fine, so this is a Hyperion issue.
The white control on these bulbs is different from usual and will be supported soon. In the mean time, I just swapped the WW and CW pins to work better.
I’ve been trying to flash this with the OTA, but without any success.
I’m already on Tasmota 10.1.0 minimal…
Edit, managed to flash after I converted the bin to bin.gz.
It kinda works now, but colors are all wrong, red is blue, green is white, blue is red?
You need to confirm the pinouts in LED Preferences.
Trying to configuring the GPIO correctly but failing, is this correct? What do I need to select in the Dropdown?
Never mind, the pins were wrong, it needs to be 4, 12, 14, 5, 13
I’ve had better operation by swapping the cold/warm white pins.