First timer questions

Hi,

I have a few questions before I start messing up stuff.
I am a electronics noob. I know the basics but when it comes to fuses and stuff I am lost :slight_smile:

I have a WS2812 5 Meter LED Strip with 300 RGB LEDs
DC5V, 0.1-0.3W/LED, 30W-90W/5m
I guess red wire is + and white wire is gnd?
The three in the plug would then be the rgb wires?
(i put all pics into one because as new user I can only embed 1 picture)

a 12 Volt Power supply
alternatively I have a 5V USB Power supply with 40 watts

which of those would you recommend to use?
I got 65 watts with the WLED Calculator, so I guess I should use the 12 volt one?

and an Amica Modul V2 ESP8266 ESP-12F

do you have recommendations for a level shifter and a 5 volt buck?
Also: what is that M F after the 62 ohm in the drawing in the get started image?

I hope you guys can help me out a bit on this :slight_smile:

https://kno.wled.ge

I know that and I already watched 5 videos

But I can’t find a single bit of information as to what these are (circled red) nor can anyone explain to me why nearly every tutorial doesn’t use them at all

In Dr Zzs video, he for example just plunges a 12 volt power supply to a 5 volt LED strip
But in the picture it says you need a 5V buck

what now?
Do you need one or not?

The diagram is more of a “all the possible safety features and functions you may need” picture than “here’s the basics to slap something together” type of document.

There are 3 fuses using the same symbol as the (only) one documented on the far left.
They’re supposed to protect your wiring and are included as the level of current that can occur in LED projects is not tiny, even though the voltage is typically low and the power levels modest.

The symbol on the right with the markings “M F” is supposed to represent a Male-Female connector that is often supplied with strips. The idea is/was they make it easier to quick disconnect a strip. Unfortunately they’re often limited as to the maximum current they can handle so they’re less useful than they could be.

The item labelled 1000uF represents an optional power supply capacitor that can help handle surges that occur with rapidly changing effects. Personally I’ve always found the use of these as dubious at best and a sign that your power - supply or wiring choices (or both) need to be reconsidered. That said, people do swear by them and they’re not likely to cause any harm.

The (optional) 62Ohm resistor is meant to deal with long data line issues. There’s an inherent issue trying to transmit the moderately fast data signal used to drive addressable LEDs. When the data line gets long (> 3m) the signal gets degraded. In some cases it may be bad enough to cause flickering/colour issues/effect corruption/etc/etc. The resistor can help in some cases. This is very dependent on your application, wiring choices and data distances. Try and keep your data lines short in general. Personally I’ve never needed/used a data resistor.

The choice and use of power supply voltages and/or buck converters is totally up to your design choices.
In general, higher voltage supplies mean lower current in the power lines supplying the strip. That means simpler power injection, smaller wires, smaller fuses, etc. But strips often require 5V for power and the ESP based MCU’s usually handle no more than 5V, so buck converters are a reasonably efficient way to bring the voltage down to what’s needed. Many people use just 5V supplies and have no need for converters at all. It really depends on the size and distances involved in your project.

As far as video’s are concerned, I’d use multiple grains of salt in relying on the advice presented. Electricity and electronics aren’t necessarily rocket science (although they’re often used as the basis for it), but it is fairly unforgiving about paying attention to details. Similar to computers, there’s a pretty basic set of rules they play by. Follow the rules and things will work out well, take “video shortcuts” that don’t explain what they’re doing and Your Mileage May Vary.

Probably just me being old-school, but I prefer to understand what I’m trying to do before I watch a pretty picture of what it could look like… (my $.02)

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Hi, thank you very much for this detailed reply.

It helped a lot.

“Many people use just 5V supplies and have no need for converters at all. It really depends on the size and distances involved in your project.”

As said, I have a 5 meter 300 led 2812b.
I think for now I’ll get a buck converter for now and then, if I want to go further, I could also use my old 550 watts PC PSU.

It has a 5 volt 15A rail. and 2x 12 volt rails with 28A and 20A. So this will be pretty future proof I guess.

Probably just me being old-school, but I prefer to understand what I’m trying to do before I watch a pretty picture of what it could look like

sure that! But You have to start somewhere :slight_smile:
I like to get an overview of how it works together and then get into the deets

Always good to collect as much info as possible.

Old PC supplies can be a good cheap choice, they’re just bulkier than what’s available these days.

One small warning when playing with buck converter setups. Your LED strip has a set voltage determined by the manufacturer. This is more than just a suggestion, it’s the Law. Accidentally applying 12V to a 5V strip will at minimum, damage and at worst, destroy your LED’s. That’s part of the simple rules electronics follow.

Have fun and keep asking questions. :grinning:

Thanks for the warning :smiley:

I figured so much :wink:

Just one more question for now regarding the right size of the PSU

AS said 12V 6A makes 72Watts, that should be enough for a 5 Meter 300 LED strip, right?

The WLED calculator gives me 61.60 W / 12.32 A
What would happen if I get a converter that only does 12V → 5V 10A?
Would the LEDs simply be dimmed or would the converter take damage?

You’re on the right track by starting with Wattage to do your calculations.
That said, the actual required power is dependent on the manufacturer’s specs, if they say max 90W/5m then that’s likely what they’ll need. The only way to truly know differently is to measure the actual current draw under load.
As to what will happen if you push the converters/power supply beyond their ratings - it depends.
Often you’ll start to see a voltage drop as you get near (or just past) the maximums.
In worst case, the device will fail altogether and burn itself out. Be forewarned that maximum ratings are often for “transients” or short bursts. A buck converter rated at 5V 10A might not deliver 50W continuously over 10 minutes or more.

One way to trial these tests is to hookup only a small section of your strip for starters.
Cut off a small portion (say 50 LEDs) to make sure you’re happy with your control and then expand to the full length.
Even then, if you limit yourself to 50% brightness you can keep a curb on the power you’re drawing from your supply.

A voltmeter with 10A current measurement is a pretty cheap and useful tool for these setups.

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Thank you very much. I think I will stop by our electrician at work an borrow a Voltmeter :slight_smile:

I will make sure not to draw too much current.

If you play with these little electronic toys (at all), I’d highly recommend you invest in an inexpensive meter.
These days you can find things like: Volt/Ammeter

Which are very useful to have around and at the price they’re hard to beat.
There’s nothing like actually measuring the voltage drop of your cables so you know your calculations are correct.
Go hunting on Aliexpress and they’re almost disposables…

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alright! I know last time there was an offer where I bought a soldering station.

They had this for 15 euros
image

  • For measuring current, voltage and resistance as well as for diode and continuity testing
  • Easy to use thanks to automatic range selection (auto range function)
  • Continuity test with acoustic signal / diode test
  • Automatic polarity display (if the value is negative)
  • Display for alternating and direct current (AC/DC) as well as ohms, volts and amperes (Ω/V/A)
  • 2 measuring tips including measuring line (each approx. 80 cm long)
  • Large, clear LC display
  • With memory function and auto-off function
  • Foldable stand
  • Including screwdriver and battery
  • Measurement category: CAT III 300 V
  • Measuring ranges: direct voltage: 0.1 mV⎓ to 300 V⎓, alternating voltage: 1 mV~ to 300 V~, direct/alternating current: 0.1 ÎĽA to 10 A, resistance: 0.1 Ω to 20 MΩ,
  • Square Wave Generator Frequency: 1kHz
  • Dimensions approx. 80 x 166 x 31.5 mm
  • Price: €14.99
  • Available from April 20, 2023 (week 16)

They’ll be on sale in a few days. I maybe get one of those too

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