Random flash/flicker only when using an effect

[Frankkz]

Hey, I’m totally new to this and it has been a struggle trying to figure this out. My setup is simple and based on Chris Maher’s 2024 setup video.

Issue: A seemingly random flash/flicker happens when using any effect. It happens at irregular intervals, sometimes after 90 seconds, sometimes after only 20 seconds.
No flashing observed on solid colors(tested 100% RGB White, 100% White LED, 100% RGB White + White, and a bunch of other colors)

Hardware:
Board: ESP32-S3 N16R8
LED strip: SK6812 5v 60LED/m
PSU: BTF 5v 10A

Settings:
Enable automatic brightness limiter: ON
Maximum PSU Current: 4000mA
Total LEDs: 163
Skip first LEDs: 18
Actually used LEDs: 145

Info tab:
v0.16.0-alpha “Niji”
Build 2412040
Signal strength 80% (-60 dBm)
Uptime 2 hours, 25 min
Time 2025-2-21, 08:37:45
Free heap 248.3 kB
Free PSRAM 8112.7 kB
Estimated current 1.1 A
Average FPS 43
MAC address 983daeecda44
CPU clock 240 MHz
Flash size 16 MB
Filesystem 24/12910 kB (0%)
Environment ESP32-S3 4.4.4.20230310 (0)

A diagram using the exact hardware/wiring of my setup:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time

[Frankkz]

(Seperate post cus link limit for new users)

Video: Flicker at 0:09s and 0:43s

LED flicker when using effect on WLED

[dedehai]

dont use maher’s videos for hardware setup, he does it wrong as you can see.
https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/#levelshifters

[Magig_Wled]

is this a clear frech install it seams that the EEprom got rest effects in the storige
clear all your presets and all your LED setup / FIRST Segment Zero
this first segment got special permission and stores things very hard if you change controller it is somtimes not complaining Even if there are the same in Hardware

[Jinx]

What @dedehai said and also don’t use that barrel connector with a 10A power supply… Those things tend to melt when pushing over 3A through them. Just cut the barrel connector off the cord and wire it direct.

[Frankkz]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and guidance! I’m still very new to all this and there’s a lot I don’t know about so I really appreciate you guys sharing the knowledge :).

I have ordered the Adafruit ‘Pixel’ Shifter (listed on the knowledge page) to be the level shifter. @dedehai

And I’ll be replacing the barrel connectors with WAGO connectors. @Jinx

Before I wire everything up I would appreciate if you guys could check whether my diagram is correct or not.

Thanks in advance!

[Jinx]

Looks ok to me. I would check with a meter to make sure that 3.3v pin really has 3v coming out of it. Sometimes things are named incorrectly on these cheap boards and or are for input and not output.

Keep the shifter close to the Esp and I would avoid using breadboard jumper wires for any permanent connections.

The last thing you may want to do is to add a fuse on the positive wire to the LEDs. I would keep it close to the power supply for more protection (where you put the Wago would be a good spot)

*If using a 5m 60/m strip of 5v LEDs you will likely need to add power injection at the far end and/or 1/2 way along the strip.

[Frankkz]

Dang I hoped to breadboard jumper wire everything to avoid having to solder.

This is the current setup (no changes made yet)

The total LEDs powered will only be 144, so I think the single power injection should be good enough for that.

I’ve looked into wire thickness and will consider replacing the power / ground wires with 18AWG wires if the breadboard jumper wires could cause problems for me in the long term ? What’s your idea on it?

I will add a fuse and will also check the 3v3 once I get the multimeter.

Thanks for all the suggestions/advice btw

[dedehai]

“I think that should” is not good enough in electronics design and the cause of fires.
and no, its not. use the calculator and it will tell you that.

LED power calculator

as long as you are ok with setting it to 50% brightness it is fine. or as long as you are ok with that box melting, then too.

[Frankkz]

You’re 100% correct. I did do the calculation using the calculator before.

Given these conditions I thought it would be ok:

• I have set the WLED software to limit the max power to 4000mA.
• I will never use RGB White + White.

The ‘worst’ condition I would put it through would be RGB White(100%)

If this is still “playing with fire” please let me know thanks

[dedehai]

you will be relying on a software to keep it from melting, so as long as it does not crash in the wrong way, you are fine.
but you really should use fuses and make it hardware-safe.