Turning on the strips causes red to shine, then it moves to the proper preset

Questions
1

Hello, I am facing a strange behavior with my led installation. The issue occurs whenever I turn on the wall switch that is powering the led psu’s causing the leds to blink once or twice as red - and then moving on to the saved preset.

  1. So for instance I set the preset 1 to All White, on turning on it starts of as white, around a second later flashes red, goes back to white and sometimes do it one more time. After that it remains white, ( think once it had an issues with full white brightness - doing the exact same thing but constantly each second or such turn on red ).

  2. Sometimes turning on stuff in the household would cause also a one time red blink.

I am quite sure it has to do something with my transformers + esp setup because using the same wiring ( re-plugging it into an SP105E, doesn’t have any issues as above ) .

Wled Settings

Version 0.13.1 “Toki” (build 2203150), Signal strength 100% -22dBm, Free heap ~200kb, Filesystem 2%, Environment esp32 v3.3.6-16-gcc5440f6a2(0)

  • Brightness limiter :white_check_mark: , Maximum current 6000 mA, Total LEDs ( 150 ), LED voltage custom (19,2W * 1000 / 60diodes / 24V ~ 14mA)

  • Hardware Setup : Led Outputs ( TM1814 ) - GRB - Off Refresh :white_check_mark: - GPIO 2

  • Defaults : Turn Led on :white_check_mark: , Default brightness 150, Apply Preset 1, Use Gamma correction for color :white_check_mark:

  • White management : White balance correction :white_check_mark: ,

LED Specification ( RGB + NW )

24V
19,2W/m
Driver name TM1814
60 diodes per meter ( SMD5050 4-CHIP )
Producer : Mario-Led ?

imgur(.)com/a/PzVh0Fx ( led strip image )

Issue Demonstration

Untitled - YouTube - Youtube issue demonstration

Wiring & Design

  • LED Psu - Meanwell HLG-320H-24A

Schema of the LED placement & injection/data points

imgur(.)com/a/YwxWYBL - Led diagram

imgur(.)com/a/0Lq9ZzS - Led look irl

Driver setup

Temporary build - waiting for a custom cabinet

imgur(.)com/a/wS3m2XC - Psu’s & stuff

Brief explanation of the build.

box1
box11920×1673 361 KB

The box is divided into 4 sections that control different rooms. Each of them has an individual dedicated power supply. Each of them is lit on by pressing a switch on the wall.

Now let me tell you about the things inside and its logic

  • 24v->12v transformer - XL4015 step-down 5A 1.25V-36V DC-DC
  • Relay - its a 2-channel power switching module, the purpose of that is to switch on the 12v fans on different conditions ( if psu1 is on and psu2 is off, if psu2 is on and psu 1 is off, if both are on ) - so it keeps the fans running depending on the wled setup running.
    *PSU1&2 Step down transformers - LM2596S
    *Wled1&2 - ESP32 ESP-WROOM-32U & Ext. ant Environment esp32 v3.3.6-16-gcc5440f6a2(0)

The transformers turn on when the switch is triggered, it steps down 24v to 5v to support the esp32, on the power line I added two capacitors (aluminum electrolytic + ceramic). The data is driven from GPIO 2 ( I02 ). Power got injected in 5V + GND.

Issues are with the PSU1+2 ( blue and green segment - excluding the relay ) - both behave the same way as presented on the video. All the PSU’s ( 1 and 2 ) are grounded - installation type is TN-C-S.

Feel free to ask me for more details and looking into for more tips, I rather don’t want to fallback for an SP105E cause lack of customization but will do if I can’t solve this. I did try v0.13.3 as well, same issue.

Sorry but I was unable to post more than one embedded image or more than 2 links.

Have a nice day, cheers.

2

(Apologies, TL/DR;)
Are all the DC common’s connected together, which is the DC supplies, and the WLED boards 0V / COM terminals? You can verify this by measuring the voltage from one DC supply 0V output to every other DC supply and WLED board. Should be 0V and stable. If not, affect wiring changes to make it 0V and stable.

3

And for RED @ Startup, typically WLED fired up green at startup, so in the RGB setup, swap RG color order so Green is fired up at startup.

4

Are you telling me to connect all power supplies (-) together ( Psu1+Psu2 )? I will check the 0V once I am at the place. In terms of RGB-> to GRB swap I think that doesn’t make much sence because then the color wheel and buttons will be displaying something other than the given color. ie green will be red right?

5

Correct. Don’t do that.

As far as the grounds yes make sure all grounds from the output of your psu’s, esp and led’s are connected together. A floating ground can cause all sorts of weird things.

6

image
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This is the current internal connection schema

7

Do you want me to do as following

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8

You don’t show your connections to the LED strips, presumably they’re both powered from the relay output or are they 24V strips straight from the PSU’s?
In general what you’ve added is correct, GND should be common on the DC side of the system.

If you’re switching both sides of power to the 24V->12Vs via the relay, that can add a little more complexity as you’re not guaranteed that GND will connect before V+ when the relay switches (usually only 10’s of ms lag). Most often you only need to disconnect V+, not both.

The last thing to verify is that the 24V->5V converters have a common ground between input and output.

9

where are the connections for the leds?

From that pic I am guessing you are using 1 psu for 1 esp/leds another psu for another esp/leds and 2 more psu’s for some other thing.

So if I am correct in that. Lets look at psu1. Connect the psu1 output ground, the esp1’s ground, the voltage convertor1’s output (5v side) ground all together. See if that fixes the issue.

You may not need to connect both the output of the psu and the output of the voltage convertor. It depends if the voltage converter just passes the ground straight through. I would just connect both of them so that there is no ‘maybe’.

Do the same for all the #2’s

Basically all the stuff running on 1 circuit has to have common ground. Not all the stuff in the box running on different circuits.

10

Yes. What divsys says also.

It all depends on what/how your led’s are connected.