Connect the LEDs to the power supply unit via the DC socket

Hello, I would like to connect my ws2812b led strip to my 5v 15a power supply which has a DC plug as output. The power supply had a DC socket with which you could screw the cable directly to the socket and then to the DC plug of the power supply can stuck. It worked for half an hour at first, although this DC socket got very hot and then at some point stopped working, at first I thought the power supply was broken, so I had the manufacturer send me a new power supply instead of the one with a new small DC socket I got to screw it in and I plugged it into the previous power supply, it also worked, so I have two functioning power supplies, only these DC sockets are always broken because the output of 5v and 11a is apparently too much, I also wrote that to the manufacturer of the power supply . My question is whether someone can recommend such a DC socket to the power supply, I would be ready to solder the cables to this DC socket, but the socket has to withstand 5v and 11a since I have 200leds, are there any other options?

My power supply: Hello, I would like to connect my ws2812b led strip to my 5v 15a power supply which has a DC plug as output. The power supply had a DC socket with which you could screw the cable directly to the socket and then to the DC plug of the power supply can stuck. It worked for half an hour at first, although this DC socket got very hot and then at some point stopped working, at first I thought the power supply was broken, so I had the manufacturer send me a new power supply instead of the one with a new small DC socket I got to screw it in and I plugged it into the previous power supply, it also worked, so I have two functioning power supplies, only these DC sockets are always broken because the output of 5v and 11a is apparently too much, I also wrote that to the manufacturer of the power supply . My question is whether someone can recommend such a DC socket to the power supply, I would be ready to solder the cables to this DC socket, but the socket has to withstand 5v and 11a since I have 200leds, are there any other options?

My power supply: https://www.amazon.de/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-Charger-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B06XRS5F21/ref=sr_1_9?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=alitove+netzteil&qid=1604508531&sr=8-9

First of all round barrel connector is not designed to draw a lot of current. Second is you do 2 interconnections from barrel to adapter and from adapter to screw terminals. I would recommend something like this https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Negative-Indicator-Waterpoof-Automotive/dp/B07HDZVW3P/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=terminal+block+with+fuse&qid=1604523993&sr=8-3
Cut off barrel connector and screw to fuse box directly. Fuse box have much better terminals plus fuses for safety.
Or at least like this for better connection. https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Positions-Terminal-Screwdriver-TB-1504-LSD/dp/B0869CYC2K?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I suspect your first power supply was going into thermal cut out. Once it had cooled down everything worked fine again.
Unfortunately these types of PSU don’t usually have any cooling fans and often have no air holes in the casing to let heat out. They are not the best choice when powering large amounts of pixels. The connectors on them are also not great for high currents.

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Modelman No, both power supplies ran and run perfectly, it is only this adapter (see picture) which got hot due to the high amounts of electricity and at some point no longer worked so that the strip can no longer receive power through the adapter from the power supply. I don’t want to cut the power supply cable.

Is it possible to connect the strip with a cable or to use a stronger socket or something else without cutting the power supply cable. Maybe something like that : https://www.ebay.de/itm/363147223171

The limitation is that socket.

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And possibly also the thin output cable that manufactures often use on this type of supply.

Those DB Barrel connectors are typically good for up to ~5A. Some of the better ones may reach 7A. If you spend way too much money, you might get 10A. Check DigiKey for options and they top out quickly around 5-7A.

Like @srg74 showed in links, a power distribution block is preferred.

One thing people often forget with screw terminals like @srg74 posted is to get some lock-washers and flat washers to insert above the ring terminal crimp-style lugs.

Over time, the screw will walk right out of the threads because of the heat / cool cycles associated with high current demand followed by off or low current. With the lock washer / flat washer combo, the screw will not walk out and will stay torqued and snug. The flat washer also reduces strain on the lug and keeps the lug / wire from spinning during final tightening.

Not absolutely required, but it can save a house and maybe a life in a worst case setting. Only you can decide if it matters for your project. In a garage on the bench, nope, I would not bother. In an attic or under a house in a crawl space or other location not so easy to get to, sure, it’s worth the extra precautions for peace of mind it could last decades.

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Look at description Gehäuse: Kunststoff
Kontaktanschluss: Lötfahnen
Bohrung: 5,5 x 2,1mm
Max. Strom: 1A
Spannung: 24VDC
Loch Durchmesser: 7,8mm
Current guaranteed only 1A MAX and you have more then that 11X.

So maybe someone can explain how the whole thing is structured and works in the end, I haven’t quite understood that yet, so I should cut open the power supply cable.

So there is no other option without cutting the power supply cable? And if I have to cut it open, can I not solder the led strip directly or get a powerful connection from power supply to strip that can withstand the current?

Is that possible? Should the current withstand without problems one end of the strip, the other end of the power supply isolate everything? https://www.amazon.de/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery-As-Shown/dp/B073QMJMRV/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=xt60+stecker&qid=1604597849&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMDI4UTNVUE5KUTNCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjY2MzY0MUc5RzROWDNPVzFKMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEyNDcwMzhOMVFDQ09COURTUiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

XT60 connectors are very good at shifting high current’s at low voltages. I use them all the time for connecting Lipo batteries to RC models. Providing you use the correct cable they will perform great with currents up to 60A.

So are the XT60 connectors good for powering the LEDs?

Yes…You can use them to power anything up to 60 Amps.

Thank you. Is there anything else important to consider besides isolating the cables?

For something more then 10A have to be fused. For safety purposes

Yes I will of course solder it and then isolate it.

Hello, I’m sorry I don’t know that much about electricity yet, I cut the power supply cable, inside is 5v and gnd, but I wonder if I do a continuity test of 5v and gnd, then my multimeter says that both are connected are, 5v and gnd shouldn’t actually be connected to one another? Does it have something to do with the AC power supply written on it? And can I still use the leds?

There is circuitry that can make it look like they are connected if you are using continuity-mode and don’t know what you are looking for. I would expect it to show a connection at first, then go away.