Kind of posting this out of desperation here, because I don’t have my USB to Serial kit to properly diagnose this.
I had a working ESP8266 (ESP01M board, something like the image below) working great. Its originally designed for use as an IR remote and has only one GPIO, but that’s enough to run WLED.
I changed the LED count from 30 down to 16, then got a message that said something like
LED settings saved.
Redirecting...
And that’s it - the WLED fell off my wi-fi never to be seen again. I measured the voltage at 5V and GND, and Seeing 4.991v. Plus its getting warm, so I know its doing something.
Anything else I can try (without a USB to Serial which I’ll be getting soon)
EDIT To make things worse, I can see a “WLED-AP” even though my home wi-fi is fully functional; There was a password set but I have no idea what it is. So it appears it’s jumped off my wi-fi for reasons unclear, and I don’t recall setting the WLAN key. Is there some way it can be reset w/o a programmer?
EDIT2 This board doesn’t appear to have a reset button. The board only has the one GPIO0 pin, which I configured WLED to use to drive my WS2812B-eco so I don’t even think shorting that to ground is an option for resetting.
If you see “WLED-AP”, then you’ve lost your WiFi settings and WLED has gone into AP mode.
You should be able to connect to that AP using a phone/tablet. The default password is “wled1234”.
Hi @divsys. I’"m running Firmware: 0.14.0-b4 on Hardware: esp8266 (I had this integrated into HASS so I know for sure). wled1234 does not work. I MIGHT have set up a password and completely forgotten to note it down. I guess I’m out of luck without the programmer? I learnt there’s a usermod to do a power cycle reset but I didn’t include that.
If you can get any documentation for that board it might help, a (simple) schematic could tell you tons.
Normally the standard install code has the option to force modes if you hold down Button 0 (normally on GPIO0) after power up:
Greater than 6s, trigger AP mode
Greater than 12s force a factory reset
Unfortunately if you changed the function of GPIO0 button, this may have been disabled (worth a try though).
Ok this is “fixed” now, but I had a hell of a time with it. Firstly I had soldered gpio0 directly to my LED strip’s data pin (GPIO0 is the IO that’s accessible to me on this board). Won’t be doing that again. After going to https://install.wled.me/, my board was flashed successfully but I could not connect to the access point it was broadcasting. wled1234 just wouldn’t work.
What did end up working for me was I connected the newly-flashed WLED board to https://install.wled.me/ - at which point I got a “connect wifi” option - it looks like the site can tell the board which WLAN to connect to over serial. That finally worked!
FYI if using “unsupported” boards (i.e. not the ones listed in KB) you are pretty much on your own regarding resolving the issues.
Community may or may not be of any help.
BTW any ESP board is dirt cheap, so replacing a non-working one with a compatible one shouldn’t be too difficult.
@blazoncek - understood, I have a few of these boards kicking around (back from when I had a ton of IR devices at home) so I thought I’d repurpose them into some lamps / LED strips!
@Jinx you’re right, it is indeed an 8285, not a 8266. It has multiple I/Os obviously, however the way the board is laid out it appears only IO4/IO14/IO0 are usable. IO4 has the IR transmitter, IO14 has the receiver, and IO0 is a general purpose pin, however when flashing IO0 must be grounded, then rebooted before normal operations.
This is all working perfectly now – thanks to everyone that helped!
