Was a lil bored today so I spent it creating a custom board for one of my esp8266’s, level shifter and relay. Screw terminals for Mic, IR, 3.3v, data1, data2, button, 5v, Ground and it actually works!!
Now do it in easyeda and order a pcb
You did a really good job , I got the breakout boards & block terminals so I could do something like that with esp32s and a mic but turns-out it is too much soldering of small parts and I had difficulties finishing due to my poor eyesight so i am thinking now to just get a ready made shied but got really confused of the options ,cost and compatibility with my MCUs .
Keep doing your own shields and might we can buy from you in the future
Hi, I did like yours and tried my own , i did not do a lot of soldering and it worked great . I want to make a circuit diagram like yours , which app did you use ? I would appreciate if anyone could point mistakes or improvements but plz be gentle because this is my first time
cheers and thanks for the inspiration
Hey not bad. The main thing I would change there is using pin headers for the esp that way you can just unplug it if it happened to die or if you needed to remove it for whatever reason. Only problem is that I don’t think it would fit your enclosure then. I didn’t add a resistor to mine as that is a conflicting part and so far I have not seen a need for one. I also have not really seen a need for the 1000uf cap either, though I guess that can help protect the first pixel or something, so maybe I’ll add one of those in down the road.
I like the idea of the audio in port. I wasn’t sure about something like that though w/out a lil pot to adjust the volume voltage.
I created my diagram first with this: EasyEDA(Standard) - A Simple and Powerful Electronic Circuit Design Tool and then changed some of the colors later on in photoshop. That online editor is kinda crude the way I used it. I just used the grid intersections as the holes in the proto board and marked the connection points using their pad tool (makes the circle) and the track tool to draw the lines. If you were to take the time I am sure it could be much nicer if you used all of the tools they offer and searched out all the components from their database and inserted them in the project.
Oh and what’s that with the green heat shrink on it?
Also this is what I bought for fuses and holders. Not a bad deal and gives me several fuse sizes to choose depending on the project. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MQ44YSH I would have liked them to have been mini’s but the kit with the mini’s started at 5a this set has 2a and 3a.
If you wanted another clean way to create a fuse holder you could also use some cheap female spade terminals for each blade of the fuse.
Thank you for the kind words ,
I did not use pin headers because i do not have any as my order is still on the way from china
You are right about the resistor/capacitor as I have used another setup without both and nothing happened
The audio in port works but please note this is the wrong way to do it ( it is still working but my head phone get static when i use it ) . I think I need to do something like the one in the link but I do not know how ? if you know how then please show me
I am also using EasyEDA site but did not notice you did because you made it in a good clean way and I need to spend more time planning like you or just steal your final EasyEDA design if you can share
The green heat shrink is on a connector that I used for the resistor . Next time I will add more because it looks nice
For fuses and holders. in the future i will use glass fuses because they are low profiles and fit in the case
For the moment I drilled holes in the car fuse and soldered it ( Fuse is the only component I think is necessary )
Also please avoid buying a project case like the one I got , it is expensive and very small . Yesterday I got food plastic containers which I will use
Just a note that now I am not using this project to control any LEDs , I only want to use it to send music reactive sampling to my other lights . This way I only need one audio in for my 4 led lights .
If there is a way to send audio from the iphone to wled app directly ( without ledfx, xlights ) then this project is not needed
I took a look at the pics on the github you linked and I put together a collection diagram that I think is correct if you end up giving it a try.
This is what i did . i connected GND and left channel only . Still when i plug audio , my headphone has static ( very minor ) . I thought i need to add extra resistors and capacitors . Does this mean the diagram components are already inside the jack ?!!! I will take it apart and see
The jack i used is recyclable from 11 pins ( audio video jack ) so might be it got damaged when I removed the 6 other pins . I will try another one but I do not have any good ones
No you would need to add those outside of the jack.
Is this basically audio amplifier board ? can I get a ready made one to connect to the esp32 .
Do you know any ?
I do not want to add so many components just to get audio
Does this work
Not sure, sorry. But I don’t think that would work. From what I gather from another github post some of those resistors are to reduce the power not increase it.
Saw this on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/soundreactive/comments/rwov21/nf_audio_input_line_in/
- In the comments there is a link to: GitHub - s-marley/ESP32_FFT_VU: A spectrum analyzer VU meter for the ESP32 and a FastLED matrix
On there it lists different values of components but explains what they are used for.
Thanks a lot for the help I really mean it . Since I do the DIY a lot and it is my main hobby to forget the real world . I will try to clean-up my diagrams and then might be I can ask again , I am also looking at some audio boards with line in jack , might be i could hack a Bluetooth one like this ?!
Ha! Now you got me thinking. A bluetooth receiver could be a nice wireless option. I think if it were me I would use a chrome cast audio hooked to the board. That way I could cast the music to that as well as other google nest/home speakers at the same time. (least I think that would work). If you don’t currently own a chrome cast audio though, it would be pricy as they are no longer made and go for $50+ used on ebay and have been for a cpl years now. Funny, as when I bought mine I think it was like $10 @ walmart a few years back for black friday.
hi, I already bought the Bluetooth and I am okay with buying chrome cast .
One thing I did not think about but will know during testing is if i stream from my phone via any means ( Bluetooth , airplay …etc ) , then i will no longer be able to hear the music from the phone . so I think it will only work this way if we have another output from that device to speakers . What do you think ?
Correct. You would need a 3.5mm splitter and finding GOOD ones of those can be a pain. I have many of them and more times than not when connecting two things it seems like one of the devices loses at least one audio channel unless you back the plug out so that it is just barely plugged in.
The chromecast idea I think would work if you have other ‘cast devices’ like nest mini speakers or whatnot. You can create a speaker group and cast to all of them at once. I know I can do that with the mini’s I am not 100% sure I can cast to those as well as the chromecast audio. But I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.
Actually I just took a look in google home and it looks like it will let me add my chromecast audio to my speaker group. I can’t check it for sure as the chromecast is in my shop and it’s cold out lol. So I’m staying in the house. But it should work as it lets me add it to the group.
finding good 3.5mm splitter or cables is an issue , which caused the static before . I ordered new once now .
How did you export clear pictures with large wiring size from easyEDA , it is misbehaving with me
I don’t remember. I think I just saved a screen shot using the windows snipping tool. Right click window/start button search for snip and click on snipping tool. At least I think that’s how I did it.
If your new order does not work, maybe try this one. In the past it seemed like the radio shack branded ones were better. Radio Shack 42-2570 Headphone Y Splitter 4" 1/8" 3.5mm Stereo Plug to Dual Jacks | eBay