You can order 10 pcb for $5 and purchase cheap parts. Solder all yourself and have 10 controllers. Here is a link to a project https://github.com/srg74/WLED-wemos-shield
Otherwise you have to pay for others people work.
srg74,
This is great stuff. Thanks for your work and help. I am looking at running a 12v power supply and 12v LEDs. When looking on your site I do not see the parts list for this option. If you have a moment to send me this information that would be great. This will be my first project so any additional diagrams, howto or detail would also be helpful. If you don’t mind I can be reached at jhcrowe@gmail.com. Thanks again!
The least expensive option is what I have running. Nodemcu with 12v on vin pin. Then data and ground to the lights. No additional hardware needed.
I plan to add an inline fuse but have not done that yet.
The nodemcu should accept up to 12v on vin pin research that.
I run a mix of d1 mini, nodemcu, and Wemos d1.
I have 12v lights and have had no issue powering the boards with 5v through a buck converter(on board or shield).
As far as wire length goes without level shifter I ran one set through 20ft of wire as a test and no issues. Another string of lights had trouble with only 6imches of wires. It seems dependent on the led quality. To fix that one I put in a null pixel from an rgb strip with heat shrink.
The key is make sure all grounds are connected. Then make sure you have the correct voltages applied to 5v lights and 12v lights.
I love these all in one boards with fuses and level shifters, but for the cost I just wire up myself with no external parts. On my mega tree I have a mix of 5v and 12v lights running off of one node mcu . Going to all 5v this year for the tree, but I had some extra 12v last year so I threw them up.
After looking around, it seems the documentation for the WS2815 is not accurate because every real-world install connects directly from an esp8266 to the data in of the WS2815 (or through a 3.3-5V level shifter), and they all work.
That means the QuinLED DigUno should work fine.
The trick is what to do with the BI.
I’ve seen a small capacitor, leaving it disconnected, connected to 0V, and copying it from data in. I would try leaving it disconnected until you start seeing dead pixels and actually need that BI signal.