@Artacus your link to the SP511e bin file is broken on your github. The sound reactive bin file is still there.
Any particular reason why? Perhaps you could load some instructions on how we can tweak and generate our own bin file (supplementing the WLED documentation with the bits to made buttons work etc)
All release files are available @Aircoookie repo. Iām trying to compile only the latest code for further testing and debugging by actual users who canāt compile but willing to help with development
Thanks both! thanks for your detailed posts and github instructions I got this running rather seamlessly. A tip from me - instead of soldering the long pins on your header connections together, I just crossed them over - letting people do it without soldering. Obviosuly be cautious with making sure connections are secure when flashing (I taped them together)
Lastly, could be worth pointing your github instructions to this discussion here because I didnāt realise there were compiling instructions in the first post but do now:)
Hi, thanks for the guide and for your work. I just wanted to ask does SoundReactive 0.13.0b-3 has alexa enabled? I saw it was disabled on earlier builds but not sure if it is now or not. I switched to standart wled for alexa support and have been using ledfx to music sync but it would be much simpler if i had the option just to use the mic on the board.
The great thing about open source, you can compile yourself with whatever options you want compiled in. But with 2MB, you are already pretty close to not being able to do OTA updates.
If I want to stick with stable releases for an SP511E (only 2MB flash), I suppose that I should use WLED_0.x.x_ESP02.bin image from Aircookie releases as per below explanation, is that right?
Super excited to start loading these controllers with WLED. Any tips on getting the controller open? Appears to be glued on the power connector end and I donāt want to break anything prying it.
Yeah, they werenāt initially glued and came apart easily with a small screwdriver. But the last several batches have been glued and needed pried open with a knife starting near the DC plug.
I occasionally break one of the legs, but the still fit back together.
Thanks! I will try that but first I have to figure out how to flash it because it happened that my USB to TTL is with FTDI not with CP2102 like shown in the tutorial. I have tried with it and with Arduino nano with CH340G but no success on bothā¦
Iāve had no trouble with FTDI and those boards.
The biggest issue is making a pin-jig to contact the traces.
You have to make good contact at just the right time.