Hi there,

After using WLED on some NodeMCU V3 devices i was running out of stock.
I tried flashing it to a NodeMCU Wemos ESP8266 with ofcourse the 8266 bin file (0.10.2)

After succesfull flashing the boards resets but there is no AP. Not on my laptop and not on my phone.

Alright. I’m confused.

The AP sometimes pops-up as WLED-AP (as I’m used to).
When I want to connect I enter the password wled1234 and click on connect.

At that point I get an error were it tells me I can’t connect to this network and then poof. It’s gone.

Is this the only board running in ap mode?

If you have two with same ssid running at the same time I could see confusion.

Yeah this is the only board. The rest is connected to my WIFI network :slight_smile:

I wonder if one of the others have dropped off your wifi network and is also showing up on ap mode.

Nope. Disconnected them all, double erased and reflashed it. Still can’t connect to it. Sometimes it pops up in my wifi devices but impossible to connect

Hi! Please try using esptool erase_flash or a similar command on another flasher, then reflash the 0.10.2 bin. On some boards there might be invalid flash data (either residue from previous applications or from the factory) and this often helps!

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Done. Tried 2 boards. Erased them with ESPTool.py, twice.
After that flashed both boards with the 0.10.2 version and both of them are not showing any WLED_AP :frowning:

In the original posted image of your NodeMCU board, when you prepare to flash, are you pushing in the flash button before plugging in the USB cable?

Personally, I find plugging in the USB cable on the NodeMCU end first, pushing the Flash button, and then plugging the other end of the USB cable into a USB port on the PC works consistently well.

Ok, before giving the nodemcu ssid/pwd, do you set the hostname to something unique on your network, or do you leave it WLED_#### - last 4 hex of MAC address (I think)?

For another test, do you have an old router (or access point) lying around collecting dust because it does not support the latest wifi protocols? The ESP8266/ESP32’s do not need that, so you could for testing purposes only setup a separate network with no internet access. Just the router plugged into the wall, and a PC connected via network cable to configure it.

You can verify it is not WLED’s fault if it successfully connects and can be controlled using that same PC, and maybe a smartphone over wifi.

I read somewhere there is a setting in some routers to block LAN / WLAN multicast which seems to affect WLED (at least on some routers).

This little test can rule out a lot of things.

Tried it, but sadly it’s not making any difference

The problem is; i don’t get at the point were i can put in my SSID/Password.
After flashing, i sometimes see an AP call WLED-AP. When i try to connect to it my iPhone tells me “Can’t connect to this network”, and my PC doesn’t even see the AP.

These boards costs me nothing. I think i’m gonna burry them deep in the ground and buy something that just works :slight_smile:

Sounds to me like the WiFi traces on the board(s) are damaged in some way. A multimeter / flashlight and magnifying lens may show this to be the problem.

Last weekend, I ran across a board with ESP8266 on it that would not connect correctly to the AP. I had to restart my phone. You say the PC does not see this board or set of free boards. Can the PC see other WLED installs without problem? If it can, definitely bad batch of boards on the wifi end of things. Perhaps post a high res image of the board showing wifi traces?

My phone can see the AP sometimes but my PC doesn’t. I’m just gonna ditch these boards. Ordered some D1 mini’s

I had the same issue with some cheap Wemos boards that I got off a guy on eBay. I got two slightly different boards. One had a small device on it branded “XTR”. And the other said “Boya Micro”. All the Wemoses (Wemi?) with the XTR chip didn’t work. Same as you. Sometimes I would briefly see the AP, but often not - and I could never successfully connect to it. The ones with “Boya Micro” worked like a charm. First time, every time.

There are a ton of knockoffs for the D1 mini, and many of them suck.


Seems I just bumped into this issue as well with the same board. I’ve tried the 1M bin file and the alternative led files, just in case the GPIO02 was causing some oddities (the blue LED on the board seems to be connected to that pin too). Just like MDLefevere, I’m not getting any AP wifi created but if I plug some LEDs to the board I get the default orange 30 leds.

Interestingly, I’ve tried Tasmota and I’ve managed to drive all the leds and create an AP without trouble. But I miss all the configurability in WLED!

How can I go about debugging this further? Is there a build with extra logging that I can try out? Happy to setup the build environment too.

Quick update on this. I’ve just finished building from master env:nodemcuv2 with serial enabled (#define WLED_DEBUG uncommented in wled.h - trying to see what the logs say) and the AP now shows up in the list of available Wifi. However, when I try to connect to it I just get a connection failure.

The logs from WLED are not revealing much:
—WLED 0.10.2 2011120 INIT—
esp8266 2_7_4
heap 38976
LEDs inited. heap usage ~144
No connection configured. Opening access point WLED-AP
Init AP interfaces
Runtime: 10000
Unix time: 10
Free heap: 33048
Wifi state: 0
State time: 10000
NTP last sync: 999000000
Client IP:
Loops/sec: 7546

With many appearances of the latter but no other errors

Because you loaded tasmota, the flash memory needs to be wiped before loading WLED. Otherwise, WLED will get strange “settings” from the existing flash memory values, and worse, it will try to use them. If one of the strange settings is related to WIFI settings, it will try to connect to some non-existing ghost wifi SSID so it can present an equally invalid password.

That said, after some period of time, WLED is supposed to revert back to AP mode when it cannot connect to the expected SSID.

How long have you been waiting for the local AP to show up? 30 seconds? 5 minutes? All night? I think it’s 30 seconds, but if it reads the AP timeout from settings, or maybe a setting for if it can even attempt to revert to AP mode… it probably will just sit there.

pyflasher seems to work well for many people to erase and then flash.